Why does it keep getting hotter

Move the lights up higher from the display if it's giving off heat. Are your return pumps running warm/hot? Power head motor in display? I would leave the heaters in and just lower the temp as your backup.

Both lights are just sitting on glass right above the water level ... I’ve got one power head In the display tank but is only a 2000L/h and I left a small heater in the bottom sump ? Any idea how to check if the return is making the heat cause I lift it out of the water and it feels cool
 
Thanks you guys love the feed back and ideas going to add a small fan and see what happens
 
I used to run a mag drive and once we switched to a DC pump it was like I removed a heater! Lol

Too be helpful to another reefer I traded an eheim to him for a mag for my mixing barrel(I got other stuff from him too to make even) but good lord I had no idea how loud and warm they run, I mean I heard, but not to this level.
Oh well, no need to heat water for WC's anymore!
 
Too be helpful to another reefer I traded an eheim to him for a mag for my mixing barrel(I got other stuff from him too to make even) but good lord I had no idea how loud and warm they run, I mean I heard, but not to this level.
Oh well, no need to heat water for WC's anymore!
Heating and mixing with one pump, a twofer!!
 
It’s actually a pound fountain pump since I had to go up almost 6ft to get back to the display tank and still have significant flow

Typically these pond pumps are not cool running, I would bet you could lower temps by switching to most any pump made for a reef, especially if you go DC. Many of these pumps will handle 6' of head pressure easy, and really you only need 3-5x turnover on a return, don't rely on a return for flow in display so much.
 
Have you had any negative side effects that I should keep a look out for with it being in the warmer side

Not yet, the fish are spawning and smiling. The tank has been set up since 1971 so if nothing happened yet, I doubt it will happen soon. I was in the Caribbean last week and the water was 82 degrees.
My tank used to go up near 90 when I had MH lights but that is too hot.
 
If those lights are sitting on the glass I bet the glass is warm and may be part of it. If you can get the lights off the glass and up it will eliminate that piece of equipment. I bet the air between the glass and water surface gets warm. Even LEDs give off a bit of heat to the touch. I’m thinking raise the light and see where you are after a few days. Just to try, while the light is running, lift it and see how hot the top of the glass is....

After the first suggestion, I’m with a few others thinking you may consider replacing the pump. Almost all aquarium pumps have a table on the box or website that shows pressure for different run heights. And if you get a dc pump, it will run cooler than a/c is general. When I replaced my a/c pump (not a pond pump) with a dc one my temps dropped a degree.
 
I would bet the glass lid, return pump, and lack of ventilation near the tank are the culprits. As to which contributes more, I would wager the return pump followed by the glass lid. How much surface agitation do you have? Pond pumps are notorious for running extremely warm compared to more traditional aquarium return pumps.
 
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I would be the glass lid, return pump, and lack of ventilation near the tank are the culprits. As to which contributes more, I would wager the return pump followed by the glass lid. How much surface agitation do you have? Pond pumps are notorious for running extremely warm compared to more traditional aquarium return pumps.

I’ve got tons of surface agitation do you think if I ran lidless it would help as well I ended up adding a fan on my sump system and so far it seems to be doing the trick
 
Yes. Maybe swing by Home Depot and get a screen kit and run a mesh screen instead of glass. This will also help with gassing off CO2 within the tank and improve oxygenation. All around wins if you ask me!
 
I'll add that some fresh water pumps aren't rated for mildly corrosive liquids. Could be a rust issue. Could be.

Yes, glass lids impede gas exchange and will hold in heat. As well as condensation issues, dirty glass can reduce par as well.
 
Yes. Maybe swing by Home Depot and get a screen kit and run a mesh screen instead of glass. This will also help with gassing off CO2 within the tank and improve oxygenation. All around wins if you ask me!

I’ll have to add that to my todo list haha
 
I'll add that some fresh water pumps aren't rated for mildly corrosive liquids. Could be a rust issue. Could be.

Yes, glass lids impede gas exchange and will hold in heat. As well as condensation issues, dirty glass can reduce par as well.

I don’t think it’s a rust issue sine the pump is barely over a month plus but I’ll look into that never heard of that being an issue
 
Oh yeah, gotta go topless, netting is much better, bet that alone drops you a degree or 2, same for return pump, next thing you'll be looking at heaters!lol

Just be prepared for increased evaporation between the top fix and fan running.
 
Oh yeah, gotta go topless, netting is much better, bet that alone drops you a degree or 2, same for return pump, next thing you'll be looking at heaters!lol

Just be prepared for increased evaporation between the top fix and fan running.

Thanks and the sump system is topless besides the 8x10 sheet of acrylic that I have keeping my light out of the water .. but Im thinking I might keep the glass lid for the moment since the fan seems to be doing the job but will prolly change it out for a topless or netting top ones I upgrade lights
 
I'm betting this is a microcosm of global warming. But seriously, I think the glass top with lights on top are creating a greenhouse effect.
 
It`s called buy a chiller.. also make sure your not running any mag pumps they are like adding 250.watt heater to your system ..
 

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