80 Gallon Deep Blue Build (48x24x16)

[Mpierce]

Also as a side note, I used both bulkheads on the tank as drains in a Herbie style and then ran the return up and over the back of the tank. I prefer this method because it creates a completely silent drain. Durso isn't loud but it's audible.

 

[Mpierce]

Do you have a valve on the return to the tank as well so it can be throttled if necessary to get adequate flow to your other equipment?

 

[member 99594]

For a manifold, ball valves are fine usually since it's just on or off. If you want more fine tune control, gate valves are nice for that.

With regards to using vynal hose and barbed fittings, I've never had one fail. I've had them on every tank I've had over the past 10+ years.

I just set up a DB 80 and I opted for barb to barb for my drain with a vynal hose and just regular old hose clamps since they aren't submersed. Otherwise there are plastic hose clamps for underwater situations. Granted, hard plumbing looks nicer, but if the time comes and you want to pull your sump out....

Thank you, and you used PVC for your return line?

 

[member 99594]

Do you have a valve on the return to the tank as well so it can be throttled if necessary to get adequate flow to your other equipment?

I guess I have another question then.. I have a controllable DC pump. Do I need that or can I use the pump to throttle?

If I need a gate valve on the return, where is the best place to put that right before the manifold and using option 2?

 

[Mpierce]

Pvc into the stand and then silicone tube with barbed fittings to the return pump to keep vibration down.

 

[Mpierce]

With the manifold my only concern is that water will take the path of least resistance so I'd want a valve on every outlet so you can keep the water going where you want it .

 

[member 99594]

With the manifold my only concern is that water will take the path of least resistance so I'd want a valve on every outlet so you can keep the water going where you want it .

For sure, I will put three ball valves on each t fitting on the manifold. That is why I was thinking the manifold should be in line with the return back to the tank. This way I can control the flow with the pump and use the manifold valves to control each device.

 

[member 99594]

How does this look? Using flex before the return pump and for the drain?

 

[Mpierce]

That is the way I would go about it. Check into a herbie drain as well, just food for thought. You can also put a slip barb fitting in the sump bulkhead.

 

[member 99594]

Verdict on the IM mat!!

48x25”. There is a half inch on the front and back that I will have to trim a bit but the ends are exactly 48”

Still going to work out just fine.

 

[KJoFan]

Verdict on the IM mat!!

48x25”. There is a half inch on the front and back that I will have to trim a bit but the ends are exactly 48”

Still going to work out just fine.

Glad to hear it!

 

[member 99594]

Here you can see how close to the edge the foam is. Also though underneath the frame is plenty wide enough to be sure it will be resting on it okay.

Should I be worried about that little gap on the corner with a framed tank? Or will it settle down once filled?

 

[member 99594]

Aquascaping test run 1

 

[member 99594]

#2

 

[jdpeters]

I would suggest just doing away with the two islands in front and open that baby up. Or alternatively leave one of the front rocks on the right side.

 

[member 99594]

I agree. I might try taking out one half of the island in the front right.

I should have my aqua fix by Wednesday...

 

[jdpeters]

I like what you did with the 2 coves and the height is perfect for your dimensions. Removing those islands would also drastically improve flow and allow detritus to not get stuck. Think of all the cool treasures you can let grow there

 

[member 99594]

I was thinking one island for Zoa's so they would not take over my tank.

 

[member 99594]

SCAPE DAY!!!

 

[Manose]

And the fun begins!!! Great job man, it is almost water time!!!