Looks like Amphi to me. No sharp points on the end like ostreo.
Amphidinium Dinoflagellate Treatment Methods
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Looks like Amphi to me. No sharp points on the end like ostreo.
OP
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These are amphidinium.
I have used amino acids to intentionally feed and grow dino blooms, so yes. they love that stuff.
SiO2 between 0.10 and 1ppm is a good target. At 0.10 I had growth of all the same diatom stuff I had at higher levels and seawater can be in the 1-2ppm range.
No need to run PO4 so high. above 0.10 is plenty, and NO3, 5 or 10ppm is enough. At those levels all the stuff you are interested in will grow, and they don't noticeably grow faster at much higher levels.
Tjm23slo
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Is there an accurate test kit? How is Hanna? Salifert was a waste of $.
I’m trying to get back into the NO3 range of 10-20pm. And my PO4 has been between 0.08 and 0.16 and things seemed fine until the aminos.
How about potassium and iodine, I understand Iron is another love of Dino’s.
Do you put much credence in the content of this blog? Aminos you have confirmed. Wondering about Carbon too as well as potassium. This person seems to suggest letting all trace elements run down, just focus on nitrates, phosphates and silicate.
http://blog.coralwonders.com/en/dinoflagelados-en-el-acuario-marino/
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I have a problem with that blog because it contains zero worked tanks for pattern logging
this thread will become the go to place for info due to logged work, live time reactions and actions etc
I for one want to see article writers participate in work threads, those threads sting at times because noncompliant tanks get updated live time
he writes really well/oceanic relating to blooms but we needed the work factor as pretty much the sole reference.
those who do work threads are the new source for updated info/here. I don't have any type of blog so my critique of that gentlemans dinos claim is armchairing, but as someone who enjoys work thread reviews its also a valid opinion. if his article simply included a 33 page work thread link where I can take away my own patterns from his symphony, then Id love it. I need him to prove literally all that. we should be adjusting what articles claim based pretty much solely on work threads
this thread will become the go to place for info due to logged work, live time reactions and actions etc
I for one want to see article writers participate in work threads, those threads sting at times because noncompliant tanks get updated live time
he writes really well/oceanic relating to blooms but we needed the work factor as pretty much the sole reference.
those who do work threads are the new source for updated info/here. I don't have any type of blog so my critique of that gentlemans dinos claim is armchairing, but as someone who enjoys work thread reviews its also a valid opinion. if his article simply included a 33 page work thread link where I can take away my own patterns from his symphony, then Id love it. I need him to prove literally all that. we should be adjusting what articles claim based pretty much solely on work threads
Last edited:
Tjm23slo
Active Member
I have a Hanna Checker coming for Si hopefully it’ll work better than Salifert dis for me. NO3 around 10ppm and PO4 ~0.12. Si is above 0.1. Not sure how high yet.
My dilemma is I am leaving for 10 days. At the end of July. I have an Ehiem auto feeder with pellets. Do I run this or have the tank go without for 10 days? I could have someone come in and feed some mysis once a day too.
Should I try the macro crowding without chaeto? If I do, how thick should it be ? Should I add a piece of rock on it?
Should I take the algae reactor off line for the ten days or reduce the # of hours the lights are on?
Any thoughts are appreciated.
My dilemma is I am leaving for 10 days. At the end of July. I have an Ehiem auto feeder with pellets. Do I run this or have the tank go without for 10 days? I could have someone come in and feed some mysis once a day too.
Should I try the macro crowding without chaeto? If I do, how thick should it be ? Should I add a piece of rock on it?
Should I take the algae reactor off line for the ten days or reduce the # of hours the lights are on?
Any thoughts are appreciated.
Jeff_H
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I'm cautiously optimistic I've won the war, but I'm not going to declare victory yet! I just examined two different water samples from my sand bed today and could find a single dino. I did find a bunch of diatoms and other critters running around. 
THANK YOU to the group of individuals on this thread who helped me get my Reef back!!!!
For others who might find this post, I followed the instructions to get my NO3 and PO4 up to a respectable level and did the Si dosing discussed in this thread for a good four months. I also added pods from AB, dosed several types of bacteria, plus I quarantined and added IPSF WonderMud, SurfZone Sand Activator, amphipods, and mini brittle starfish from Indo-Pacific Sea Farms.
Other things worth mentioning...
- I ran the full Triton Method the whole time. I know there are individuals who stopped dosing Triton during the protocol, but I decided to give it a shot and had no issues.
- I have a peninsula style setup so I have lower flow areas on the two ends. I decided to remove 95% of the sand on the ends but left the middle alone due to a wrasse and a diamond goby. Both are doing great!
- I don't know if it was related to the dinos, but I lost three cleaner shrimp, a couple of SPS corals, one LPS, and a couple of snails.
- My tank looks like a "hot mess" right now with hair algae, diatoms, and cyano, but the cyano appears to only be covering the algae so I've been removing it by hand once a week. I plan to let it just run its course unless the cyano starts to cover corals.
Good luck to everyone else who has the misfortune of having this scourge ;Sour dominating your tank!
THANK YOU to the group of individuals on this thread who helped me get my Reef back!!!!
For others who might find this post, I followed the instructions to get my NO3 and PO4 up to a respectable level and did the Si dosing discussed in this thread for a good four months. I also added pods from AB, dosed several types of bacteria, plus I quarantined and added IPSF WonderMud, SurfZone Sand Activator, amphipods, and mini brittle starfish from Indo-Pacific Sea Farms.
Other things worth mentioning...
- I ran the full Triton Method the whole time. I know there are individuals who stopped dosing Triton during the protocol, but I decided to give it a shot and had no issues.
- I have a peninsula style setup so I have lower flow areas on the two ends. I decided to remove 95% of the sand on the ends but left the middle alone due to a wrasse and a diamond goby. Both are doing great!
- I don't know if it was related to the dinos, but I lost three cleaner shrimp, a couple of SPS corals, one LPS, and a couple of snails.
- My tank looks like a "hot mess" right now with hair algae, diatoms, and cyano, but the cyano appears to only be covering the algae so I've been removing it by hand once a week. I plan to let it just run its course unless the cyano starts to cover corals.
Good luck to everyone else who has the misfortune of having this scourge ;Sour dominating your tank!
Tjm23slo
Active Member
Good to hear success.
What were your ball park organically numbers? Close to @taricha numbers. NO3: 5-10ppm; PO4: 0.1-0.16 and SiO2: 0.1-1ppm?
QUOTE="Jeff_H, post: 6273539, member: 84897"]
- I ran the full Triton Method the whole time. I know there are individuals who stopped dosing Triton during the protocol, but I decided to give it a shot and had no issues.
[/Quote]
Were you dosing anything other than Core7. Were you adding any trace elements like K,Fe, I? I am asking as my last IcP test came in where my tank needed K and I. Worried about adding until I get movement on Dino’s or at least others with the Dino’s
QUOTE="Jeff_H, post: 6273539, member: 84897"]
I decided to remove 95% of the sand on the ends but left the middle alone due to a wrasse and a diamond goby. Both are doing great! [/quote]
Do you think the sand softer helped any by churning the sand or just didn’t die?
How often were you syphoning the sand?
QUOTE="Jeff_H, post: 6273539, member: 84897"]
- My tank looks like a "hot mess" right now with hair algae, diatoms, and cyano, but the cyano appears to only be covering the algae so I've been removing it by hand once a week. I plan to let it just run its course unless the cyano starts to cover corals.
[/QUOTE]
How long has you tank been a hot mess? Ball park of time from hot mess to no more Dino bloom? Or did the Dino population start dropping prior to the hot mess. I am struggling to get a hot mess going.
Not sure if it’s the algae reactor or UV, but as soon as anything starts to form in the glass it clouds white.
What were your ball park organically numbers? Close to @taricha numbers. NO3: 5-10ppm; PO4: 0.1-0.16 and SiO2: 0.1-1ppm?
QUOTE="Jeff_H, post: 6273539, member: 84897"]
- I ran the full Triton Method the whole time. I know there are individuals who stopped dosing Triton during the protocol, but I decided to give it a shot and had no issues.
[/Quote]
Were you dosing anything other than Core7. Were you adding any trace elements like K,Fe, I? I am asking as my last IcP test came in where my tank needed K and I. Worried about adding until I get movement on Dino’s or at least others with the Dino’s
QUOTE="Jeff_H, post: 6273539, member: 84897"]
I decided to remove 95% of the sand on the ends but left the middle alone due to a wrasse and a diamond goby. Both are doing great! [/quote]
Do you think the sand softer helped any by churning the sand or just didn’t die?
How often were you syphoning the sand?
QUOTE="Jeff_H, post: 6273539, member: 84897"]
- My tank looks like a "hot mess" right now with hair algae, diatoms, and cyano, but the cyano appears to only be covering the algae so I've been removing it by hand once a week. I plan to let it just run its course unless the cyano starts to cover corals.
[/QUOTE]
How long has you tank been a hot mess? Ball park of time from hot mess to no more Dino bloom? Or did the Dino population start dropping prior to the hot mess. I am struggling to get a hot mess going.
Not sure if it’s the algae reactor or UV, but as soon as anything starts to form in the glass it clouds white.
Jeff_H
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What were your ball park organically numbers? Close to @taricha numbers. NO3: 5-10ppm; PO4: 0.1-0.16 and SiO2: 0.1-1ppm?
Yes - I feed and dosed my way to NO3: 5-10 and PO4: .5-.13, and SiO2: .5-2 ppm.
Were you dosing anything other than Core7. Were you adding any trace elements like K,Fe, I? I am asking as my last IcP test came in where my tank needed K and I. Worried about adding until I get movement on Dino’s or at least others with the Dino’s
Yes - I dosed iodine, manganese, vanadium, and zink weekly. I also did some one time corrective does of K and a couple of other I don't recall at the moment. I didn't see any change good or bad by any of the dosing.
Do you think the sand sifter helped any by churning the sand or just didn’t die?
No, I don't think he helped at all.
How often were you siphoning the sand?
At first, I siphoned the top layer out, wash it and replace it after it had dried. At other times, I stirred it daily or weekly. neither seemed to really help, so in the end, I just left it alone.
How long has you tank been a hot mess? Ball park of time from hot mess to no more Dino bloom? Or did the Dino population start dropping prior to the hot mess. I am struggling to get a hot mess going.
Hard to say, but a good two months for sure. I'm basically going through the ugly phase again. I think like others, once I was able to get the nutrients up and add some diversity back into the tank it slowly started so turn around. This was harder for me since I'm one of the crazy people that QT anything wet that goes in the tank. I had to wait 76 days before I could add all the good stuff.
Not sure if it’s the algae reactor or UV, but as soon as anything starts to form in the glass it clouds white.[/QUOTE]
Strang for sure... Do you have your NO3 and PO4 back up? If not I would cut the light on the algae reactor back to just keep it alive. I never say anything turning white with the UV or otherwise. That said - if you have amphidinium, the UV will not help unless you can find a way to suck the little jerks through it.
Good luck with your battle!
Yes - I feed and dosed my way to NO3: 5-10 and PO4: .5-.13, and SiO2: .5-2 ppm.
Were you dosing anything other than Core7. Were you adding any trace elements like K,Fe, I? I am asking as my last IcP test came in where my tank needed K and I. Worried about adding until I get movement on Dino’s or at least others with the Dino’s
Yes - I dosed iodine, manganese, vanadium, and zink weekly. I also did some one time corrective does of K and a couple of other I don't recall at the moment. I didn't see any change good or bad by any of the dosing.
Do you think the sand sifter helped any by churning the sand or just didn’t die?
No, I don't think he helped at all.
How often were you siphoning the sand?
At first, I siphoned the top layer out, wash it and replace it after it had dried. At other times, I stirred it daily or weekly. neither seemed to really help, so in the end, I just left it alone.
How long has you tank been a hot mess? Ball park of time from hot mess to no more Dino bloom? Or did the Dino population start dropping prior to the hot mess. I am struggling to get a hot mess going.
Hard to say, but a good two months for sure. I'm basically going through the ugly phase again. I think like others, once I was able to get the nutrients up and add some diversity back into the tank it slowly started so turn around. This was harder for me since I'm one of the crazy people that QT anything wet that goes in the tank. I had to wait 76 days before I could add all the good stuff.
Not sure if it’s the algae reactor or UV, but as soon as anything starts to form in the glass it clouds white.[/QUOTE]
Strang for sure... Do you have your NO3 and PO4 back up? If not I would cut the light on the algae reactor back to just keep it alive. I never say anything turning white with the UV or otherwise. That said - if you have amphidinium, the UV will not help unless you can find a way to suck the little jerks through it.
Good luck with your battle!
Tjm23slo
Active Member
If you want 2L or 20L at a time here is one supplier on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Brightwell-Aquatics-SpongExcel-supplement-increasing/dp/B01BDQL11G?th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Brightwell-Aquatics-SpongExcel-supplement-increasing/dp/B01BDQL11G?th=1
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Jeff_H
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Earlier in this thread somebody recommended a product from Florida Aqua Farms. http://floridaaquafarms.com/product-category/store/micro-macro-nutrients/
I have a 150-gallon tank and did go there 3 or 4 125ml bottles. I decided to go this route since the dosing calculations were already laid out in this thread.
OP
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Yep. That Florida aqua farms is what I use now.
It will last me forever.
OP
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Found it.
I ordered a bottle of Silicate from Florida Aqua farms once I got tired of going through the tiny spongexcel bottles. Only downside was I couldn't find anyone who could tell me the actual concentration of the bottle
Dsantamaria29
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Anyone else have it get worse before it got better? Started raising my Nitrates and Phosphates and Dino’s exploded. Was just spots on the sand bed now it’s on the glass and rocks.
OP
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Yes. Adding N and P we are changing the limiting nutrients. The bloom in a lot of cases will get worse until other limiting nutrients are consumed, then things are to get better. Many people have a fully developed bloom when they start, so for those people it doesn't have to get worse first.
Tjm23slo
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FYI they love Triton Biobase too.
