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specialk
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As soon as those lights come on .. I will post a pic!
Another STUPID Cyano Thread
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specialk
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This def has me intrigued ...
Star reefer3
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I had the exact same problem you were having I had 0 p04 0 n03 0 ammonia yet slime alge was like a plague over my tank. And one of the reasons I've heard is that there's no phosphate in the water but it's actually locked up in the slime alge which is why your test comes out as 0. And the only way I managed to get rid of it was boyd chemiclean
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specialk
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Interesting .. Yah I am fascinated by this and am all ears on this and eager to learn about this in depth during this thread
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specialk
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yep here's the breakdown going on in that tank physically, regardless of your treatment options which are many this is surely whats going down and its not that hard to fix:
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specialk
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Did you post what I should do and it is just not showing up ...? Seems the directions on what to do never showed ...
Or you got busy ..
at work got sdtrcked back on
the coverage on the rocks is preventing them from expressing pent up waste. All live rocks produce it; set the cleanest purplest most knurly quality live rock you can buy/order into a white paint bucket of sw, you get detritus every day as long as that rock exists
live rock expresses waste and we don't account for that in lots of todays tank reworks.
If you choose to topically kill that cyano, which many actions sure can, then you get the same pore blocking cuz its not being removed, but now with a layer topcoat of dying organism to pack more into the pores
the opposite is hand access
storm zone simulation, puts back open, expressing pores. you increase your surface area vastly by cleaning out this tank vs medicating it...currently the pores have coverage from normal matted invaders we expect to see on the reef...
theres nothing wrong with your major params or your corals w be suffering
during your planned move, its ideal to reference some tanks from that work thread and see how deep they cleaned/we dislodged crud from every pore. oxygenating flow comes back into the rocks, health, self regulation begins since they can exchange w the tank now vs just sink and plug
Your reef is simply modeling a zone you'd rather have it model a more active fringing zone in look, so, we've got to flush it out if you want to speed up recovery
Standard kill/die/absorb in tank/slowly exported as detritus by manual filtration does work, but it takes time, and we compensate for the rush by doubling up on dosers...coral kill
we killed none in that thread
its highly ironic that total surgery, done right, is the safest thing for your corals and the most natural actually. have you seen the active ingredient in marine algaefix its 27 letters long. people rage over that stuff, but they pack in waste, then make another purchase to offset the detritus that came from the dying algae in their waste cloud setups.
our tanks don't get the correct flushing nature provides so they turn into plant lagoons or moneran trap areas of +organic loading unless we shake things up so to speak, at the right time.
the coverage on the rocks is preventing them from expressing pent up waste. All live rocks produce it; set the cleanest purplest most knurly quality live rock you can buy/order into a white paint bucket of sw, you get detritus every day as long as that rock exists
live rock expresses waste and we don't account for that in lots of todays tank reworks.
If you choose to topically kill that cyano, which many actions sure can, then you get the same pore blocking cuz its not being removed, but now with a layer topcoat of dying organism to pack more into the pores
the opposite is hand access
storm zone simulation, puts back open, expressing pores. you increase your surface area vastly by cleaning out this tank vs medicating it...currently the pores have coverage from normal matted invaders we expect to see on the reef...
theres nothing wrong with your major params or your corals w be suffering
during your planned move, its ideal to reference some tanks from that work thread and see how deep they cleaned/we dislodged crud from every pore. oxygenating flow comes back into the rocks, health, self regulation begins since they can exchange w the tank now vs just sink and plug
Your reef is simply modeling a zone you'd rather have it model a more active fringing zone in look, so, we've got to flush it out if you want to speed up recovery
Standard kill/die/absorb in tank/slowly exported as detritus by manual filtration does work, but it takes time, and we compensate for the rush by doubling up on dosers...coral kill
we killed none in that thread
its highly ironic that total surgery, done right, is the safest thing for your corals and the most natural actually. have you seen the active ingredient in marine algaefix its 27 letters long. people rage over that stuff, but they pack in waste, then make another purchase to offset the detritus that came from the dying algae in their waste cloud setups.
our tanks don't get the correct flushing nature provides so they turn into plant lagoons or moneran trap areas of +organic loading unless we shake things up so to speak, at the right time.
Last edited:
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specialk
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Ok, so to start ... my corals are starting to have some bleaching at the tips .. so my swings would be causing this. Not the cyno?
Also .. if I am following ... the medicating the tank (example, chemiclean) will work, but I stand a better chance to just clean the tank? (sand, rocks, the works ... etc)
Am I following>?
(and thanks a ton for this info .. massive help) .. look forward to reply on this
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specialk
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@brandon429 also would you suggest, as again I am getting ready to just go down to a frag tank for the next few months, that I take all the sand (or a very good amount of it) out of this current tank for the time remaining that I have it up?
MnFish1
10K Club member
This happened to me after a power failure as well - I wondered if it had something to do with the temperature of the water - or other organics/inorganics released from a couple dying coral. I decided to remove and frag any pieces of 'dying or bleaching' coral - I also used a python - and siphoned the cyano up every other day for 2-3 days - and only changed a small amount of water (i.e whatever I removed).
Once the tank stabilized again - it left just as quickly as it came. I guess it took about 3 weeks.
Star reefer3
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Just clean it sounds like a good idea but in my experience I did countless deep cleans and it always came back imo chemiclean is the best and has no harmful effects as long as you have good oxygenationOk, so to start ... my corals are starting to have some bleaching at the tips .. so my swings would be causing this. Not the cyno?
Also .. if I am following ... the medicating the tank (example, chemiclean) will work, but I stand a better chance to just clean the tank? (sand, rocks, the works ... etc)
Am I following>?
(and thanks a ton for this info .. massive help) .. look forward to reply on this
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specialk
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How did your rocks look after that .. like new?
Or .. well almost like new?
Star reefer3
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Like new they were completely clean I'll try and find a before and after pic for youHow did your rocks look after that .. like new?
Star reefer3
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Here's the pics it's a little blurry the circled part is the same rockHow did your rocks look after that .. like new?
