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A good water change should reduce this drastically with no need for additives. I assume youre using RODI water ? What is expiration on the kit ?
This is low compared to before the water change. I want to say it’s at .2 atm before the water change it was much darker closer to 1 ppm. I did a wc before work this morning.A good water change should reduce thius drastically. I assume youre using RODI water ? What is expiration on the kit ?
Here is the backstory on this - the person who formulated Prazipro is John Kuhns. He also invented Cloram-x, he is just saying to use his products (grin). You don’t need to dose with ammonia remover prior to dosing with Prazipro unless you test and have an ammonia problem.Also just read the directions on their site and it says to dose with products to remove ammonia. Maybe I should not dose while ammonia is still present
I figured it was a marketing strategy. But at the same time I do have the ammonia problem..Here is the backstory on this - the person who formulated Prazipro is John Kuhns. He also invented Cloram-x, he is just saying to use his products (grin). You don’t need to dose with ammonia remover prior to dosing with Prazipro unless you test and have an ammonia problem.
Jay
Was also thinking this, the fish is still very lackadaisical compared to the other 2 qt mates.I would also consider dosing metro to the QT tank too, if it doesn't start eating soon.
might have some internal parasites going on too.
Cant get a good look at its face but not seeing anything that jumps out suggesting ich.Looks like the naso broke out in ich After I rearranged the rocks I noticed a lot of white on the face/body and fins.
almost looks like the white scuff it has on its side got worse and spread through its body.
May be hard to see I will keep a close eye on it and get better pics if they’re still there tomorrow. but here’s a closer look at those pics. I see at least 11 white spots on its abdomen near the pelvic / anal fins. (First pic)Cant get a good look at its face but not seeing anything that jumps out suggesting ich.

Yes, keep an eye on it as it may be sandMay be hard to see I will keep a close eye on it and get better pics if they’re still there tomorrow. but here’s a closer look at those pics. I see at least 11 white spots on its abdomen near the pelvic / anal fins. (First pic)
The mark on its face (second pic) looks more like a scuff than dots, same as the scuff on the fish’ left side (third pic)
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Looks like the naso broke out in ich After I rearranged the rocks I noticed a lot of white on the face/body and fins.
almost looks like the white scuff it has on its side got worse and spread through its body.
1000% sure it’s not sandYes, keep an eye on it as it may be sand
this morning was not able to get a good look, but It looked like the spots on the bottom we’re gone. Only the scuffs were still noticeable.Agreed with @vetteguy53081 - the scuff marks don't always mean ich, and I cannot see any distinct spots.
They may be just that - scuff marks from dashing around during the rock rearranging. Fish with flukes can also get scuff marks due to flashing/scratching.
The fish could well have ich, don't get me wrong, I just cant see it in the photos.
Jay
Not physical sand , meant from sand as mine does that on occasion. Gets startled and dives into sand or decor1000% sure it’s not sand
this morning was not able to get a good look, but It looked like the spots on the bottom we’re gone. Only the scuffs were still noticeable.
will check again when I get home
The OP's very first post stated that shortly after adding this fish to the QT tank, it started rubbing itself on the sand and then the OP noticed spots. The fish has had various spots and scuffs ever since... also quite possible from continuing to rub on sand or decor.
I would have started copper/prazi on this fish a week ago just as a precaution. full 30 days.
Then again, I recommend that for any un-QT'd fish.
especially tangs, which are ich magnets.

I doubt I would treat both at the same time. Especially since you guys say there’s no signs of ick. I could prob just use the copper later on. I would want to make this as easy on the fish as possible, since the naso already seems a bit weakened.Make sure the tangs are getting good protein/fats, not just nori, the naso is a bit thin. Manage the ammonia as best you can, less than 0.25 ppm. The question is: do you treat for protozoans first (copper) or flukes (prazi) or do you take a bit of a risk, and dose both together? PBT get ich so easily, I'd be inclined to treat for that, even in the absence of obvious trophont spots. Flukes take longer to kill, and perhaps could be dealt with later on.
If you do decide to treat for both issues at the same time, be sure to add good aeration.
Jay

