Coopers Red Sea Reefer 450

[MCooper]

It isn't great for your wallet when your LFS is 7 minutes away from your office! I had planned on going yesterday regardless, in hopes of finding a 3rd fish to add to my QT setup, but I can see this ease becoming an issue hahaha.
Was planning on adding a YWG or Midas Blenny as the 3rd and final fish for my 1st QT run, but found this gorgeous wrasse instead!

Added an additional 15 turbo snails, 50 blue legged hermits, 1 sally long foot and 1 pistol shrimp along with 2 cleaner shrimps and 2 blood shrimps!

This gorgeous fish sadly did not make it, nor have I had any luck with Wrasses in my QT

 

[primoreef]

Never put a wrasse in a qt

 

[MCooper]

Never put a wrasse in a qt

seriously?

 

[Highgrade]

It isn't great for your wallet when your LFS is 7 minutes away from your office! I had planned on going yesterday regardless, in hopes of finding a 3rd fish to add to my QT setup, but I can see this ease becoming an issue hahaha.
Was planning on adding a YWG or Midas Blenny as the 3rd and final fish for my 1st QT run, but found this gorgeous wrasse instead!

Added an additional 15 turbo snails, 50 blue legged hermits, 1 sally long foot and 1 pistol shrimp along with 2 cleaner shrimps and 2 blood shrimps!

Nice Fairy Wrasse

 

[Highgrade]

seriously?

LOL - that makes no sense. Wrasses can be sensitive to treatments and stress easily but they should be QT. Unless you like to gamble on the lives of your other livestock.

 

[ksfulk]

Never put a wrasse in a qt

I disagree vehemently with the above comment. Its true that wrasse have a bad wrap in QT, but its important to treat them because they still harbor all the "baddies" you dont want to introduce to your tank. They can be sensitive to some medications, so I (with the recommendations of several others on this forum) suggest TTM with wrasses which is a much quicker method to get them through QT while still addressing the most common issues with fish and parasites. I havent had any luck with wrasses and copper, but I have gotten fairies, flashers and leopards through QT using both CP and TTM. Sometimes its worth just observing them eat and "fattening" them up for a few days before starting the quarantine procedure as well - worked well for me with leopards doing just that. About a week in an non-medicated QT "observation" tank and then TTM once they are eating like pigs

 

[MCooper]

Certainly plan on trying the wrasse once more, but need to QT. I cannot risk my entire tank getting sick because of not doing it.

 

[MCooper]

So does anyone have any input on my potential fish additions?

 

[ksfulk]

Update-->
Current Stock List in tank after undergoing QT: Longnose Hawkfish Pair, Midas Blenny, Pair of Clowns, Pair of Bartlett Anthias (had a trio but 1 didn't make it in qt).
Current fish in QT: 2 females and 1 male Lyretail Anthia, Flame Hawkfish, Tailspot Blenny, Pair of ORA Cleaner Gobies and an ORA Watchman Goby

Question: I want to add a white spotted puffer, chevron tang and yellow tang
Once the 3 fish I just listed are added (or before I place them in DT) do I have room for more fish?
Also, should I get a 3rd Bartlett Anthia?

As long as your skimmer (and other nutrient export) is upto the bioload, I think you'll be maxed after your puffer/tang addition. As for the anthia, Ive never had much success in adding a single fish to an already established population. If you were going to add more bartlett's Id add 2-3 more (though you are again knocking on the bioload door). But thats my experience. Single/pairs I've had success with if there are similar body types in the tank (meaning since you have another set of anthias, you may be ok on the aggression side). I have bartletts, carberryi, respledents and lyretails all together and some are pairs, trios and singles - no real issue there with agresssion, they all swim together regardless of their species. Hope that helped!

 

[MCooper]

As long as your skimmer (and other nutrient export) is upto the bioload, I think you'll be maxed after your puffer/tang addition. As for the anthia, Ive never had much success in adding a single fish to an already established population. If you were going to add more bartlett's Id add 2-3 more (though you are again knocking on the bioload door). But thats my experience. Single/pairs I've had success with if there are similar body types in the tank (meaning since you have another set of anthias, you may be ok on the aggression side). I have bartletts, carberryi, respledents and lyretails all together and some are pairs, trios and singles - no real issue there with agresssion, they all swim together regardless of their species. Hope that helped!

Thank you very much as it is very helpful! Do you think I can QT the puffer and 2 tangs in the same 29 gallon or do the puffer in 1 and the 2 tangs in another 29 gallon ?

 

[ksfulk]

Thank you very much as it is very helpful! Do you think I can QT the puffer and 2 tangs in the same 29 gallon or do the puffer in 1 and the 2 tangs in another 29 gallon ?

I dont have any experience with puffers, so take that into consideration, but heres what I think. It depends on two main things. 1.) How big are the fish. Small tangs/puffers will be ok in a smaller tank for QT, but three 4-5" fish will beat each other up in there quickly. Hiding places are a must. 2.) How much effort are you putting into your QT? That seems silly, but I have 23 fish in my 40b for QT for the past 2.5 months. I moved everything over from my 300 gallon system, and put them through CP and several rounds of Prazi. I have to perform a 10g water change every other day otherwise the ammonia peaks into the green category on the check badge. But I have LOTS of hiding places. If you are willing to put in the work and the money to do that kind of water change regiment, then you should be good with all 3 together - otherwise I would split them up. Tangs are generally messy eaters - I assume puffers are as well, so monitoring ammonia will be your biggest issue there I think.

 

[MCooper]

I dont have any experience with puffers, so take that into consideration, but heres what I think. It depends on two main things. 1.) How big are the fish. Small tangs/puffers will be ok in a smaller tank for QT, but three 4-5" fish will beat each other up in there quickly. Hiding places are a must. 2.) How much effort are you putting into your QT? That seems silly, but I have 23 fish in my 40b for QT for the past 2.5 months. I moved everything over from my 300 gallon system, and put them through CP and several rounds of Prazi. I have to perform a 10g water change every other day otherwise the ammonia peaks into the green category on the check badge. But I have LOTS of hiding places. If you are willing to put in the work and the money to do that kind of water change regiment, then you should be good with all 3 together - otherwise I would split them up. Tangs are generally messy eaters - I assume puffers are as well, so monitoring ammonia will be your biggest issue there I think.

WOW! That is one full QT with tons of hiding places. I am not sure , but I certainly put a large amount of time and effort into my qt as when I was dosing NFG I did a 25% water change every to every other day.

Now I need to decide for sure what 2 tangs I want to add. I want 2 with the most personality so I am unsure as I have never had a tang before!

 

[ksfulk]

I like the kole/tomini/bristletooth for personality and cleaning - they keep the rock spotless in my previous tanks, and they tend to be less aggressive in my opinion. The zebrasoma that Ive kept (yellow, sailfin, purple) have all been pretty to look at but otherwise boring? The desjardani sailfins are probably the prettiest though, particularily once they get their adult coloration. Ive had hippo tangs that were fat little pigs, but tended to get bossed around by anyone else in the tank (particularily the leopard wrasses for some reason) even as they grew bigger than their harassers. I really loved my goldrim tang (acanthurus) for personality - but I dont know if it was because he was a quirky fish, or if thats how all of them act (granted most acanthurus will get too big for your tank size). Im getting a naso for my latest build, as they are just so pretty and seem to be personable from what Ive read on other people's threads - but I havent owned one yet.

 

[shadow1013]

I know my LFS doesn't put the wrasse in the copper system because they can be sensitive to it.

 

[MCooper]

Changed up my rock work so can have a branched side and then the other side with a nice cave and flat area for corals

 

[Clarksski]

Rock work looks good! Is everyone out of qt?

 

[MCooper]

Rock work looks good! Is everyone out of qt?

Thank you regarding rocks!
My qt is a mess because I keep getting hit with bacterial infections. Currently both qt tanks are full

QT 1 has 4 female lyretails that have another 10 days I think
QT 2 has a few fish in it doing well, but my flame hawk is appearing pale and has a bacterial infection wound that is being treated. I am really really hoping he can pull through and I don't suffer any more losses!

After the QT 1 and 2 are completed I have one more round of fish to go through qt

 

[Daniel@R2R Verified Admin]

@Humblefish or @melypr1985 could probably help with QT issues. I love that rock work! Looking good! I hope things get better with your QT.

 

[Clarksski]

Sorry to hear about QT probs... Nothing worse than having sick fish. I love flame hawks. They are one cool fish! I hope he pulls through and yea, reach out to those two fish docs if you get stuck.

 

[melypr1985]

Thank you regarding rocks!
My qt is a mess because I keep getting hit with bacterial infections. Currently both qt tanks are full

QT 1 has 4 female lyretails that have another 10 days I think
QT 2 has a few fish in it doing well, but my flame hawk is appearing pale and has a bacterial infection wound that is being treated. I am really really hoping he can pull through and I don't suffer any more losses!

After the QT 1 and 2 are completed I have one more round of fish to go through qt

Any idea what is causing the infections? They don't usually just pop up out of nowhere. There is usually a cause like a parasite or injury.