Disease ID on naso tang

I remember this now!

Just so I've got this right: You lost two clowns to brook in this tank and never went fallow? :confused:
 
Brook (and uronema) is a weird disease. First, you have to understand it's not been as thoroughly studied as ich & velvet. So all the little ins and outs are not as well understood. For example, I know a few people now who have administered a formalin bath for brook, put the fish right back in the contaminated DT, and sometimes brook comes back/sometimes it doesn't. One time it took more than a year and only happened after the lady moved the tank. Other times, brook can wipe out your entire fish population like velvet (which is more the norm).
 
So you think this could be brook? I haven't seen the typical brook symtoms on him.....I don't like taking my fish out of the tank unless they will die if I won't......
 
So you think this could be brook? I haven't seen the typical brook symtoms on him.....I don't like taking my fish out of the tank unless they will die if I won't......
I think it's very likely you still have brook lurking in your tank. However, I don't think there's enough evidence to diagnose your naso with brook or any other disease at this time. I would just wait & see for now.
 
Definitely looks worse.....fish seems more lethargic.
IMG_20160125_100549.jpg
 
Are any of your other fish showing symptoms? Maybe ask the guy you bought him from if any of his fish are showing symptoms?

If it's a waterborne illness, other fish should start showing similar symptoms.
 
Nope. No one else has anything like it. My blue hippo gets a spot or 2 of ich every now and again.
 
He's been visiting the cleaner shrimp to get his mouth cleaned.
 
Can it be flukes?

Doesn't look like flukes to me, but the only way to know for sure is to administer a 5 min FW dip. Even if nothing turns up, it will at least eliminate the possibility of flukes from the equation. FW dip also provides temporary relief for brook.
 
Should I do that? Might it stress it further? He still is eating.....also if I do, I should just match temp and PH, right?
 
What is interesting is that it is not effecting the middle area of the body...both sides are the same.
 
Should I do that? Might it stress it further? He still is eating.....also if I do, I should just match temp and PH, right?

I would. If you follow my instructions (below) precisely, it won't harm the fish in any way.

Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.

How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.

Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.

For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.

Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.

Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
 

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