Still going back over the thread in case I missed something
But food yea light maybe. Your SPS are beautiful. That's weird to me because your LPS and Zoas look good too.
And that not usually possible. There are usually just the two types. SPS and softie.
(Yes there's several in between semantics)
But they are corals that as far as a I know need two totally different habitats. Lighting flow and nutrient wise.
Two see them mixed in a tank but still looking healthy makes me wonder.
My Zoas won't open in flow high enough to keep that green SPS alive.
Defiantly not in a tank that small.
So keeping any of them is lucky. Perhaps because you've struck suck a light flow and nutrient balance that it's beautiful and colorful but grows slow.
In zeovite and other systems you learn to manipulate those balances for color or growth based on the nutrient bacteria ligting. Etc.
So by unplugging the skimmer for a week (no the tank won't die) you would be changing the nutrients. Add calcium and you'll get crazy growth in the SPS but ugly colors.
See SPS browning hi nutrients on Google.
My nano is brown now. But growing.
slow changes are best.
And visually there appears there's nothing actually wrong with your tank.
I would change nothing. Begin to spot feed (blender mush From the store is actually ok )
Twice a week. If you feel the need to change the light go with a single t5 actinic or Fiji purple.
Moderately increased feedings an slight increase in available light spectrum. Plus tiny increase in intensity.
i keep all types of coral, thats why its a MIXED reef, not just an lps or a softie reef. lots of people do this, successfully as well. i have built the tank to handle very different types of water conditions, even though its a nano. i am not just "lucky".
1. the light is positioned way far back, almost hanging over the rear edge. this is so the intensity is very high over the back wall (where the sps are) and the lps in the sand bed and at the front of the tank (mainly the acans) get very little light.
2. the return AND the power head are both positioned at the top of the tank. this is so there is heavy flow up high (for the sps) but moderate to low flow at the very bottom of the tank.
3. i feed this tank so much i can even begin to think about feeding it more...
water changes? what water do you use?
as I stated it gets weekly water changes (around 15-20%) with RO/DI water and salinity by aqua vitro.
thank you!
Hey Rosie does that stuff really works? I've heard about this product?
looks like my rastas grew some more heads, that is the ONLY difference i have seen since using this, and i have gone through the whole box now. my skimmer goes CRAZY for 48h after i dose so i just unplug it. its kind of a hassle lol.
Changing your light to a Radion Xr15 is a great idea!

Although I don't think that is your problem. Putting the skimmer on a timer could possibly help. Imo your biggest problem is gfo, you already have a fuge with cheto and do weekly WC(with no fish) so why run gfo? I've stopped using Gfo on my 75g Sps dominant tank lit by 2 Radion gen 3 pro's with great results. I say cut the gfo and start using that reactor for carbon. Run carbon for 2 weeks on and 2 weeks off.
Also I'd suggest you get a better test for Po4. If your using salifert and it's coming back at 0.03 then it could easily be 0.00 or 0.18 lol. I'm sure others disagree but I don't trust anything but Hanna Ulr phosphorus checker.
Lastly with Leds you can definitely up your peak day to a little longer. I run my lights at peak for 5 hours and in total then run for just under 11 hours a day. T5's on for 5 hours as well.
Rant over......
agreed, i had my peak so low as i was acclimating the scolys to it. I'm increasing 10% every week until I'm back to normal, then ill add 30m to peak time per week until I'm back to around 6-7h.
i run the GFO very cautiously. if i was not consistently testing positive for phosphates, i would not run it. but i do. every single time i test i test some amount of phosphates. i would be worried if i tested none every once in awhile, but clearly there is some trace amount, regardless of what it is. if the corals were starving, they would not have as much color as they do. carbon is in a bag in the sump.
A friend of mine was having the same problem. What she found was that once she added fish, her corals thrived.
weird how my NPS tank is fishless and grows just fine! not every nano has fish...think of the picos! there are many 1-5g tanks that are just too small to have really any fish, and they have just fine growth.
Agreed. Plus when it all goes grow out there will be choking out issues. Been there. Unless there's an upgrade in the future. BA little tank tho.
well, its not growing at all, so that won't be a problem for quite a long time. plus, i have organized the tank as well as i can so that neighboring corals do not sting and kill each other, but rather just live peacefully together. 60g is getting all the lps soon and this will be an sps only tank, so there will be slower growth and lots more room!
When was the last time you have had signs of bad algae in the tank? Tank looks real clean, thought of lack of nutrients for the corals possibly.
i have such excessive amounts of bubble algae i can't even begin to tell you. i need like 10 emerald crabs, i just hate them so i never get around to buying them.
other than that, i have a VERY beefy clean up crew, because i HATE algae. i am very anal about algae (besides the bubble lol).
if it were a lack of nutrients, i would expect the coloration of the corals to not be as bright as they are.
I had this problem in my son's 90g mixed reef tank. The water was too clean. I took out carbon, bio-pellets, most of the phosguard ang I started feeding heavily. I keep nitrates around 5 ppm. The corals colored back up great. They started growing. I had ti double my calcium dosing.
my corals are colored up just fine, and my calcium is actually running too high right now! i feed pretty heavily considering how small the tank is and having no fish...i consistently test nitrates and phosphates, sometimes the nitrates are up at 15ppm.
That small of a tank needs no nutrient removal imo, just water changes when needed. Do 100 percent wc too. Also you don't need crazy light. Nano are almost to easy for softies, and for zoa's to really grow you need water movement,, same direct allows them to spreed well.
you just contradicted yourself. you said that small of a tank needs no nutrient removal, but to do 100% water changes? thats 100% nutrient removal. and ill have to disagree with you completely. nano tanks need more nutrient removal than larger tanks because you have much less room for error, and a smaller amount of water volume is much harder to keep clean than a large volume. i will not be doing 100% water changes, as all the coralline on the rocks will die if exposed to air every single week. water movement? there are happy acropora in there, there is plenty of water movement! i have a "crazy" light because some acropora need up to 300-500PAR. this tank will be all SPS soon as well. i have the light positioned in a way that there is a lot of variation in PAR around the tank.
AS STATED ABOVE: i plan to remove the sump and throw it on my 60g, and just keep the GFO reactor BECAUSE one week after adding it, my sps colors looked about 250% better (i will post a picture, just a second). when i upgrade to the fusion 10 and remove the sump, add the mp10-- this will be a STRICTLY SPS TANK ONLY. i guess we will see how it goes!