Instant ways to kill ich and velvet

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Jay I had a question on this if you see it.

I might have a similar problem but I do not have copper in my tank. I was wondering if I reset my tank if I dose it with high levels of Hydrogen Peroxide. I believe that should kill everything, Parasites and Good/Bad Bacteria. I believe the peroxide will cycle out of the system, I then would do a 50 percent water change and re-cycle the tank. I have dry rock and crushed sand bottom. This way seems faster and less work not to mention less water waste. What are you thoughts, would this work?

I had done some preliminary bench testing on peroxide before I retired. The info is here:

Hydrogen Peroxide Bench-testing

Bench testing of the effects of hydrogen peroxide in aquariums.

www.reef2reef.com

Peroxide has good and bad points; it does decompose readily into non-toxic constituents, but dosing it is dependent on organic loading of the system, and it is difficult to measure the active dose without using the test strips I mention.

I just never got the the point where I felt I could use peroxide to fully sterilize a system.....

Jay

 

[Elliott ll]

I dont like false info being spread to new reefers, setting them up for failure. I also have been reef keeping since 1988. Current 400g display 700g total system is just frags now, but my previous 180g display 270g display was growing out until the texas freeze.
Your nitrate and phosphate are not zero! But beautiful soft coral display, ive not kept a softy since 99' more of an sps keeper myself.

Not false when its worked several times. Including for me. You can teach an old dog new tricks... just keep reading.

 

[ziggyjane07]

For well over a year, new industry standard for Fallow is 45 days

Where can I find info on the 45 days? I have not seen it. I am very interested in this and would be keen as some advice as ro where to begin looking.
thanks heaps

 

[scott_r]

if that 104 worked, it'd likely kill any bacteria and the tank would have to be re-cycled anyways. Why not just drain & dry then refill? You'll have to do a WC anyways to get the copper out

One would think but this is a very interesting conversion in the video below ( approx 22 mins he talks about it). The guest had one of the worst fish diseases in the hobby according to him and he cooked his rock at over 100 degrees for days, then blasted it with hydrogen peroxide. Had tests done and the system had no disease but still had good bacteria. Its a very interesting video.
I wouldn't go to that extend for ich but the method would eradicate it me thinks! Cheers!!

 

[livinlifeinBKK]

I prefer to drop a toaster in the tank...5 minutes later, dead.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Where can I find info on the 45 days? I have not seen it. I am very interested in this and would be keen as some advice as ro where to begin looking.
thanks heaps

Was not only given to me at recent seminar but read Jay’s sticky notes and some refer to Humble Fish who acknowledge the same
Studies show the cysts and tromemonts at 80.5 degrees have a shorter life cycle and 45 days sufficient
I recommend 45-60 as an assurance

 

[ziggyjane07]

Cool! thank you!!!
I’ll have a dig around. I’m certainly keen on learning as much as I can, I have a few in qt and have learnt as a beginner the hard way. But I’m using it as a chance to upgrade my tank and was wanting to know if I could or should use the water from the fallow tank to help kick over the new one etc. the 45 days sounds great as I have amphiboles etc out of control!!
I’m also still trying to decide how do I know if my treatments are working as I have one very pale flame hawk and one not so and not so great on determining outcomes or wot to really look for.
But thank you for giving a bit of direction on where to look for some things, it’ll help immensely Cheers

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Where can I find info on the 45 days? I have not seen it. I am very interested in this and would be keen as some advice as ro where to begin looking.
thanks heaps

There is a thread here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/45-day-fallow-periods.805213/

IMO - if you have a compelling reason to hurry the process, and you can raise the tank temp above 81, then it is a viable alternative. Otherwise, you should go 60+ days.

Jay

 

[ziggyjane07]

There is a thread here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/45-day-fallow-periods.805213/

IMO - if you have a compelling reason to hurry the process, and you can raise the tank temp above 81, then it is a viable alternative. Otherwise, you should go 60+ days.

Jay

Great! Thank you Jay

 

[cbnspanky]

I don't know what anyone is arguing about and I also don't know Adam, unless he is the guy with Eve.

But since I already gave my opinion on this thread I will give another one. I prefer a diatom filter to all methods for "instant" parasite removal. No muss no fuss.

I realize diatom filters are difficult to get now, but your fish don't care.

Have a great day.

I worked at a LFS in the 90s and remember a co-worker that wondered why people freaked out about ich when all it took was a diatom filter. I was poor and couldn’t afford one. Now if you ask your LFS about them they give you a blank stare. I’ve recently gotten back into the hobby with a 12 gallon nano. I do wish someone would make a mini version of the Vortex for people with small tanks. It’s ridiculous having to have a hospital tank as large as your display tank just to avoid parasite deaths. Have any suggestions? There’s a guy on YouTube that made a smaller version that’s more complex that the Vortex. The Vortex really was a simple straight forward device.

 

[GARRIGA]

I worked at a LFS in the 90s and remember a co-worker that wondered why people freaked out about ich when all it took was a diatom filter. I was poor and couldn’t afford one. Now if you ask your LFS about them they give you a blank stare. I’ve recently gotten back into the hobby with a 12 gallon nano. I do wish someone would make a mini version of the Vortex for people with small tanks. It’s ridiculous having to have a hospital tank as large as your display tank just to avoid parasite deaths. Have any suggestions? There’s a guy on YouTube that made a smaller version that’s more complex that the Vortex. The Vortex really was a simple straight forward device.

MarineLand magnum can be used with diatomaceous earth. Google it. There’s a good video from MarineLand.

Learned about DE filters to combat ich in the early 70s from a freshwater breeder that supplied the LFS. I’m betting it can clear dinos that are free swimming at night as well plus make water sparking clear.

Today’s generation often clueless to what worked long ago. Most LFS claim undergravel filters don’t work. Probably never used them. Used with too much flow or just prefer the profit from more expensive products. The hobby has become gear centric to the point showing off your sump more important than the life within the box of water.

 

[Shooter6]

I worked at a LFS in the 90s and remember a co-worker that wondered why people freaked out about ich when all it took was a diatom filter. I was poor and couldn’t afford one. Now if you ask your LFS about them they give you a blank stare. I’ve recently gotten back into the hobby with a 12 gallon nano. I do wish someone would make a mini version of the Vortex for people with small tanks. It’s ridiculous having to have a hospital tank as large as your display tank just to avoid parasite deaths. Have any suggestions? There’s a guy on YouTube that made a smaller version that’s more complex that the Vortex. The Vortex really was a simple straight forward device.

Diatomaceous filters were great for algae, diatoms,cyano ect. Pool stores are about the only source I know of now though.

 

[cbnspanky]

MarineLand magnum can be used with diatomaceous earth. Google it. There’s a good video from MarineLand.

Learned about DE filters to combat ich in the early 70s from a freshwater breeder that supplied the LFS. I’m betting it can clear dinos that are free swimming at night as well plus make water sparking clear.

Today’s generation often clueless to what worked long ago. Most LFS claim undergravel filters don’t work. Probably never used them. Used with too much flow or just prefer the profit from more expensive products. The hobby has become gear centric to the point showing off your sump more important than the life within the box of water.

I’ve seen that one and also like what this guy is doing. What do you think?

 

[cbnspanky]

Diatomaceous filters were great for algae, diatoms,cyano ect. Pool stores are about the only source I know of now though.

There are some do it yourself options

 

[GARRIGA]

I’ve seen that one and also like what this guy is doing. What do you think?

Seems like a lot of effort to replicate the MarineLand plus this takes up a lot more space but for those wanting diy it’s probably worth the effort.

 

[cbnspanky]

Seems like a lot of effort to replicate the MarineLand plus this takes up a lot more space but for those wanting diy it’s probably worth the effort.

The Marineland is too large for my tank (12 gallon long) . I’m thinking of making one about half the size of the diy

 

[GARRIGA]

The Marineland is too large for my tank (12 gallon long) . I’m thinking of making one about half the size of the diy

They have a new 200 size. Both can be placed sideways and it's just temporary.

 

[cbnspanky]

They have a new 200 size. Both can be placed sideways and it's just temporary.

I did not know this. Thanks, that may be my answer

 

[cbnspanky]

They have a new 200 size. Both can be placed sideways and it's just temporary.

Im seeing some issues with the motor not being strong enough for diatomaceous earth

 

[Matt1997]

If it’s ich just let it be. Fish handle and overcome ich very well. You’re more likely to kill it pulling it from the display tank, putting it into a quarantine tank, and stressing the heck out of it with meds then just letting it be. If it’s eating, feed more and it will be clear in a week.