Is my blue tang ok?

[mehaffydr]

Not really sure what your getting at here. I have never heard of anyone setting up a QT tank that is larger than their display. Typically they are much smaller because they are temporary and used for 30-45 days. I sure would think that a 15-20 gallon tank with ha HOB filter would work great. While bacteria is getting established frequent water changes like daily would keep ammonia in check. You could buy a small tank a heater a HOB filter or air pump and sponge filter ammonia badge and bottle bacteria for less than what was paid for the fish and not to mention you could actually save the fish rather than slowly watch it parish. i think this do nothing attitude is completely irresponsible in this case and will result in fish death.

 

[mehaffydr]

There is also another option you could go with but at this point there is most likely too much infestation for this. There is a method of eradicating ICK by using Hypopsalinity, This would require removal of all corals and inverts so still would require a spare tank but maybe even smaller depending on what you have. This is where you slowly over a few days lower salinity down to 1.009 and keep it there for 35 days and then slowly raise it back up. The only difficulty here is having equipment to accurately measure salinity because there is not a lot of room for error or fluctuation. Below is the details on this.

Hyposalinity

Hyposalinity Jay Hemdal 2024 This term refers to a long-term bath treatment for marine fishes in which the salt content of the water is lowered and held below the point that certain parasites can survive. The salt level reached, and the time of the treatment are the two variables...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[vetteguy53081]

These fish are not big on Nori which wont contribute to cure. The best ich treatment is copper-based medication. Rather than treating the main aquarium, move the sick fish to a bare bottomed quarantine or treatment tank. This should be aerated and have the same water conditions as the main aquarium.
Mardel Coppersafe from Fritz Aquatics treats both freshwater and saltwater ich, along with other diseases, including Velvet (Oodinium) and other external parasites. However, because it is a copper-based treatment made from chelated copper sulfate. Treatment level is 2.25-2.25 and must be confirmed during treatment for 30 days.
Feed LRS Herbivore diet
spirulina brine shrimp
formula 2
Hikari marine cuisine
small plankton
mysis shrimp

Add selcon vitamin to foods occasionally and garlic extract to foods for stamina and immunity health

>>>>> WHEN USING ANY COPPER IN WATER - HAVE A RELIABLE TEST KIT TO MONITOR LEVELS. IT'S A MUST <<<
No Api Kit either

 

[vetteguy53081]

It doesn’t sound like he has another tank and his display is 26-gallons, so buying a new 10-gallon hospital tank and putting copper in there is even more likely to kill it.

I’ve also kept Achilles, Hippo, Yellow, powder blue, sailfins, powder brown successfully and learned if you pull out a new tang once it gets some white specs, it’s even more stressful.
Now if there was an established, sufficient, designated hospital tank, that’s different. For sure that would help. But I’m assuming that’s not the case here

Actually 10 gallon tank is ideal. It allows one to closely monitor fish and allows treatment of common disease and parasites within a controlled environment, reduces the stress of acclimation, and allows you easy observation of new fish in case of disease as mentioned and reduces the cost of medication opposed to medicating an entire display tank. ten gallon only makes sense

 

[Tamberav]

Too many fish in too small of tank leads to stress and sickness and death. A few years to upgrade is too long of a wait.

It is possible that more fish will become sick since the tank is new and small. You should consider proper QT and the very least, proper stocking levels and mixing fish appropriately. For example, mixing a sixline with other wrasse in a 30g may work for awhile but you are asking for fish to be killed randomly one day. It is a potential waste of money and life.

The QT tank can just be a Rubbermaid container and a sponge filter.

 

[ryshark]

Not really sure what your getting at here. I have never heard of anyone setting up a QT tank that is larger than their display. Typically they are much smaller because they are temporary and used for 30-45 days. I sure would think that a 15-20 gallon tank with ha HOB filter would work great. While bacteria is getting established frequent water changes like daily would keep ammonia in check. You could buy a small tank a heater a HOB filter or air pump and sponge filter ammonia badge and bottle bacteria for less than what was paid for the fish and not to mention you could actually save the fish rather than slowly watch it parish. i think this do nothing attitude is completely irresponsible in this case and will result in fish death.

If he puts all 6+ of those fish in a new 10-gallon tank (which we already established the fact that he can’t do this) then all 6+ of those fish will most likely die.
Even with water changes and brand new HOB and bottled bacteria. The ammonia will rise on top of the added stress from copper or hypo salinity.

I’m speaking from my own experiences. As soon as I stopped doing this and stopped freaking out about a little ich was when I was able to keep thriving Powder Blues and all the other “ich magnet” tangs. Eventually their immune systems develop and they stop getting ich.

But I never had any size tang in small display tank like the OP has and I’m not certain how bad of shape this blue tang is in at this point.

 

[ryshark]

These fish are not big on Nori which wont contribute to cure. The best ich treatment is copper-based medication. Rather than treating the main aquarium, move the sick fish to a bare bottomed quarantine or treatment tank. This should be aerated and have the same water conditions as the main aquarium.
Mardel Coppersafe from Fritz Aquatics treats both freshwater and saltwater ich, along with other diseases, including Velvet (Oodinium) and other external parasites. However, because it is a copper-based treatment made from chelated copper sulfate. Treatment level is 2.25-2.25 and must be confirmed during treatment for 30 days.
Feed LRS Herbivore diet
spirulina brine shrimp
formula 2
Hikari marine cuisine
small plankton
mysis shrimp

Add selcon vitamin to foods occasionally and garlic extract to foods for stamina and immunity health

>>>>> WHEN USING ANY COPPER IN WATER - HAVE A RELIABLE TEST KIT TO MONITOR LEVELS. IT'S A MUST <<<
No Api Kit either

Even if this did work, with only treating the tang, as soon as he puts the tang back in the display with the other fish the same thing will happen again.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Even if this did work, with only treating the tang, as soon as he puts the tang back in the display with the other fish the same thing will happen again.

No - Protocol is if others have ich, tank will have to be fallow for 45-60 days. This is why 30 day treatment- It assures trophants have gone through full stage
If fish was in there fr several weeks, that changes the protocols

 

[ryshark]

No - Protocol is if others have ich, tank will have to be fallow for 45-60 days. This is why 30 day treatment- It assures trophants have gone through full stage
If fish was in there fr several weeks, that changes the protocols

The OP’s other fish don’t show signs of ich. Your post said to take out the sick fish.
But I think one thing we can all agree on, regardless of if the other fish show ich or not, it’s in the tank and the freshly treated tang would catch it again.

 

[Andynz2000]

Thanks for the debate guys. I know my tank is small but the inhabitants are tiny. All my other fish are very healthy, it’s just my blue tang. I will report back after 10 days of medic.

 

[Tamberav]

Even if this did work, with only treating the tang, as soon as he puts the tang back in the display with the other fish the same thing will happen again.

The best/easiest and kindest thing to do for this fish with a 30g and no QT is to re-home it and maybe the other wrasse too.

This is likely not a problem to solve itself long term with the current set up.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Thanks for the debate guys. I know my tank is small but the inhabitants are tiny. All my other fish are very healthy, it’s just my blue tang. I will report back after 10 days of medic.

Medic is a peroxide salt and takes much longer but I have had success with it. I used in conjunction with ruby Rally pro and success.

 

[Andynz2000]

Medic is a peroxide salt and takes much longer but I have had success with it. I used in conjunction with ruby Rally pro and success.

Could it cause a ammonia spike? Or kill coraline/chaeto? My diamond watchman goby has been frantically swimming up and down randomly.

 

[vetteguy53081]

The OP’s other fish don’t show signs of ich. Your post said to take out the sick fish.
But I think one thing we can all agree on, regardless of if the other fish show ich or not, it’s in the tank and the freshly treated tang would catch it again.

And thats because its trophants and a newly introduced fish. Trophant stage is considered the feeding stage as the parasite has attached itself to the fish which are the salt or sugar-like dots on its body as in the pics. These dots are not the actual parasite, as all stages of ich are not visible to the naked eye. Each white dot is actually caused by excess mucous which forms around the area where a trophont latches onto the fish.
This is the fish’s immune response to the parasite. Understand the stages before you comment and this is not to be rude but we want this OP to understand what is happening as he treats.
I think the use of MEDIC was not a good choice and quarantine would have been the most positive use of treatment, as @Tamberav stated- its right now an alternative and not a long term solution as other fish are now exposed to tomont and theront stages looking for another host.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Could it cause a ammonia spike? Or kill coraline/chaeto? My diamond watchman goby has been frantically swimming up and down randomly.

That it will not do but always add aeration when providing any type of treatment

 

[Andynz2000]

That it will not do but always add aeration when providing any type of treatment

Ok. I have a decent skimmer in the sump and two power heads providing decent surface agitation. I will closely monitor the tank. I’ve been off work so my tank time has been several hours per day

 

[vetteguy53081]

Ok. I have a decent skimmer in the sump and two power heads providing decent surface agitation. I will closely monitor the tank. I’ve been off work so my tank time has been several hours per day

Air stone would be more effective means of adding oxygen
As for UV sterilizer- Good. It wont stop current parasite but will have effect and any new ones.

 

[ryshark]

And thats because its trophants and a newly introduced fish. Trophant stage is considered the feeding stage as the parasite has attached itself to the fish which are the salt or sugar-like dots on its body as in the pics. These dots are not the actual parasite, as all stages of ich are not visible to the naked eye. Each white dot is actually caused by excess mucous which forms around the area where a trophont latches onto the fish.
This is the fish’s immune response to the parasite. Understand the stages before you comment and this is not to be rude but we want this OP to understand what is happening as he treats.
I think the use of MEDIC was not a good choice and quarantine would have been the most positive use of treatment, as @Tamberav stated- its right now an alternative and not a long term solution as other fish are now exposed to tomont and theront stages looking for another host.

You said to take the “sick fish” being the tang, and put it into a 10-gallon tank for treatment. (We already know this is not even an option for the OP).
What I said is that even if your tang treatment suggestion worked for the OP, the tang would get ich again as soon as it went back into the display.

 

[vetteguy53081]

You said to take the “sick fish” being the tang, and put it into a 10-gallon tank for treatment. (We already know this is not even an option for the OP).
What I said is that even if your tang treatment suggestion worked for the OP, the tang would get ich again as soon as it went back into the display.

. . . . and as just explained, this fish is in the Trophant stage which is considered the feeding stage as the parasite has attached itself to the fish which are the salt or sugar-like dots on its body as in the pics. These dots are not the actual parasite, as all stages of ich are not visible to the naked eye. Each white dot is actually caused by excess mucous which forms around the area where a trophont latches onto the fish.
This is the fish’s immune response to the parasite. Understand the stages before you comment and this is not to be rude but we want this OP to understand what is happening as he treats.
How is tang going to get ich again unless it was Not properly treated. This tang had ich 2+ years ago and was treated and returned to display- and is ih free along with 18 other tangs I have

 

[ryshark]

. . . . and as just explained, this fish is in the Trophant stage which is considered the feeding stage as the parasite has attached itself to the fish which are the salt or sugar-like dots on its body as in the pics. These dots are not the actual parasite, as all stages of ich are not visible to the naked eye. Each white dot is actually caused by excess mucous which forms around the area where a trophont latches onto the fish.
This is the fish’s immune response to the parasite. Understand the stages before you comment and this is not to be rude but we want this OP to understand what is happening as he treats.
How is tang going to get ich again unless it was Not properly treated. This tang had ich 2+ years ago and was treated and returned to display- and is ih free along with 18 other tangs I have

Because it was done properly, probably not in a 10-gallon QT and the fish developed immunity. The ich is in the water already in all stages, I believe. Maybe from the other fish, but they don’t show symptoms because they can fight it off.