Is my blue tang ok?

This is all moot information you guys are regurgitating copy/pasting as the OP made it clear he can’t setup a QT whatsoever.

Let’s help the OP with his particular situation and what he can do in reality. Not what he could have or should have done.
 
I will be honest, I don't believe people when they say they can't set up a QT tank. I think it is more that they don't want to.
 
Because it was done properly, probably not in a 10-gallon QT and the fish developed immunity. The ich is in the water already in all stages, I believe. Maybe from the other fish, but they don’t show symptoms because they can fight it off.
Immunity??? Fish are immune to disease???
Fish do not fight off ich. Their When parasites are present, they WILL find a host to survive and then overtake the tank. This is especially true if your tank is plagued by more than one strain of ich.
This is not goldfish we are discussing here.
 
Immunity??? Fish are immune to disease???
Fish do not fight off ich. Their When parasites are present, they WILL find a host to survive and then overtake the tank. This is especially true if your tank is plagued by more than one strain of ich.
This is not goldfish we are discussing here.
I’ve never owned goldfish. But I’ve had several tangs who when first introduced show signs of ich then I keep their living conditions pristine, it goes away and then they never get ich again. Maybe my tanks are magic,….. wish it was magic for acros too.
 
I’m actually building a new tank now, recently finished cycling, first fishes added last week and will soon get a couple tangs.

I’ll probably end up jinxing myself now, from my comments in this thread and have fish die in my display from ich. Which hasn’t happened to me since I was a noob.

My reboot was from crazy algae/bacteria issue which might have been lyngbya. I cleaned everything thoroughly, but to play it extra careful I wanted things that would eat it if it came back.

@vetteguy53081 I took your advice from an old thread I found and ordered the CUC you suggested for lyngbya, even though I’m not 100% that’s what it was. It’s definitely not a CUC I would typically order.

With all this said, within a few weeks I should be adding 2-tangs to a new tank. So, we’ll see what happens this time.
I see you laughing at me above, so game on. My tangs will come from LFS and go directly into display.
 
I’m actually building a new tank now, recently finished cycling, first fishes added last week and will soon get a couple tangs.

I’ll probably end up jinxing myself now, from my comments in this thread and have fish die in my display from ich. Which hasn’t happened to me since I was a noob.

My reboot was from crazy algae/bacteria issue which might have been lyngbya. I cleaned everything thoroughly, but to play it extra careful I wanted things that would eat it if it came back.

@vetteguy53081 I took your advice from an old thread I found and ordered the CUC you suggested for lyngbya, even though I’m not 100% that’s what it was. It’s definitely not a CUC I would typically order.

With all this said, within a few weeks I should be adding 2-tangs to a new tank. So, we’ll see what happens this time.
I see you laughing at me above, so game on. My tangs will come from LFS and go directly into display.
You may know this already but Before purchase :

Ask to see it eat
observe its breathing
Look for skin issues such as parasite-bacteria-lesions
both eyes clear
Responds to your hand approaching tank
How it gets along with others in the tank
 
You may know this already but Before purchase :

Ask to see it eat
observe its breathing
Look for skin issues such as parasite-bacteria-lesions
both eyes clear
Responds to your hand approaching tank
How it gets along with others in the tank
Will do. I’m planning on blue hippo like the OP has and a whitetail bistletooth.
 
Hey guys,

I’ve got a illumagic blaze x mine, would turning the UV up on that help?
 
I’m actually building a new tank now, recently finished cycling, first fishes added last week and will soon get a couple tangs.

I’ll probably end up jinxing myself now, from my comments in this thread and have fish die in my display from ich. Which hasn’t happened to me since I was a noob.

My reboot was from crazy algae/bacteria issue which might have been lyngbya. I cleaned everything thoroughly, but to play it extra careful I wanted things that would eat it if it came back.

@vetteguy53081 I took your advice from an old thread I found and ordered the CUC you suggested for lyngbya, even though I’m not 100% that’s what it was. It’s definitely not a CUC I would typically order.

With all this said, within a few weeks I should be adding 2-tangs to a new tank. So, we’ll see what happens this time.
I see you laughing at me above, so game on. My tangs will come from LFS and go directly into display.
That’s cool man!
 
On
. . . . and as just explained, this fish is in the Trophant stage which is considered the feeding stage as the parasite has attached itself to the fish which are the salt or sugar-like dots on its body as in the pics. These dots are not the actual parasite, as all stages of ich are not visible to the naked eye. Each white dot is actually caused by excess mucous which forms around the area where a trophont latches onto the fish.
This is the fish’s immune response to the parasite. Understand the stages before you comment and this is not to be rude but we want this OP to understand what is happening as he treats.
How is tang going to get ich again unless it was Not properly treated. This tang had ich 2+ years ago and was treated and returned to display- and is ih free along with 18 other tangs I have

1644175364594.png
660g tangs 7.3.jpg
Your reef is so beautiful man
 
Would this be ok to use with medic? Im dosing 1ml a day.
 
Hey guys,

I’ve got a illumagic blaze x mine, would turning the UV up on that help?

No. Lights over our tanks don't contain real UV. If they did, it would kill fish. Real UV's are inside a plastic housing because they are damaging to life.
 
This is all moot information you guys are regurgitating copy/pasting as the OP made it clear he can’t setup a QT whatsoever.

Let’s help the OP with his particular situation and what he can do in reality. Not what he could have or should have done.
I did not see anywhere tat he says "In No Way Whatsoever". I believe you put those words in the thread for him. I can't really believe that anyone who can afford this hobby and afford to buy those fish cant buy a 10-20 dollar 10 gallon tank with accessories needed to set up a QT. Setting up a QT would be cheaper than buying another tang and it would keep the current fish alive. Its not what he should have or could have but what he should do now to save this fish and the others in the tank.
I think what you are saying is not all wrong but with this new almost sterile tank the chance of this fish surviving is minimal and letting the ICK continue to multiply will only make it worse for the rest of the fish
 
Yikes! Now everyone has it. Now you have to live with Ich management.
quarantine tank like everyone else is saying.

I made those same mistakes so don't feel bad.

Maybe you can find a reefer near you with an established quarantine setup? The parasite is already all over your system. You are caught between a rock and a hard place. Due to the system size and no quarantine tank you don't have many cards to play here. I would ride this out and make sure he eats. Stress just makes things worse. Grab a UV filter if you can and put that on the system. It won't cure things but can slow the spread and intensity of the parasite. If you do try UV make sure the flow rate is correct for the type of UV you have to kill the parasites.

If you cured him and put him back he would probably get it again. There are ways to break the cycle but it requires all fish to be removed, quarantined, and treated in an established quarantine system free of inverts that would be killed by treatment.

Then your show system has to stay free of fish for 70-80 days. I was reading a good article about it a few weeks ago. You have some nice coral in there so be careful what you do and add to the tank. It takes weeks for problems to show up.

Sorry.
 
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I think it is only right for me to come back to this thread, swallow my pride and say I had misspoken. On February 9th I picked up what looked to be a healthy Blue Tang about the same size as the OP's tang. The LFS supposedly treat all their fish in quarantine before putting them on the sales floor. A few days later it showed some white spots, however it kept eating and swimming normally, until yesterday. By last night it looked like it was covered in specs.... to the point where I really hope it was NOT marine velvet. Before I went to bed last night I knew it wouldn't live another 24-hours in the condition it was in; as expected it just died.

It has been many, many years I have had a fish die to disease across several tanks and many fish, including powder blue tangs. I'm not a superstitious person but, the timing here is crazy. Either I had been getting really lucky the last 15 or so years, or really unlucky this time around.

In my current tank, I only have a few fish which all came from the same LFS and I didn't have any inverts yet, so as soon as I saw the white spots a few days after putting the blue tang in my tank, I knew it came from that particular LFS. So far my other fish show no symptoms. Coincidentally, a few hours ago, as I was watching my fish struggle to breathe, the LFS called me because I had ordered another fish for pickup and they were calling to see if I still wanted them to get the fish tomorrow. I told them about the blue tang I bought from them and they offered me a "discount on medication."

Up until now, I got the vast majority of my fish from LiveAquaria because of selection, ease and the 14-day guarantee. I didn't this time because I have read a lot of people recently saying how bad LiveAquaria has become.

Although, I do believe the outcome would have been the same putting my tang or the OP's in a brand new 10-gallon tank with no biological filter established and then start treatment, it definitely couldn't have been any worse than what just happened in my situation. I will say now, although not always practical, the best solution is to have an established QT up at all times, or at least a biological filter which can easily be added to a new QT/hospital tank.

I have been humbled.
 
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I think it is only right for me to come back to this thread, swallow my pride and say I had misspoken. On February 9th I picked up what looked to be a healthy Blue Tang about the same size as the OP's tang. The LFS supposedly treat all their fish in quarantine before putting them on the sales floor. A few days later it showed some white spots, however it kept eating and swimming normally, until yesterday. By last night it looked like it was covered in specs.... to the point where I really hope it was NOT marine velvet. Before I went to bed last night I knew it wouldn't live another 24-hours in the condition it was in; as expected it just died.

It has been many, many years I have had a fish die to disease across several tanks and many fish, including powder blue tangs. I'm not a superstitious person but, the timing here is crazy. Either I had been getting really lucky the last 15 or so years, or really unlucky this time around.

In my current tank, I only have a few fish which all came from the same LFS and I didn't have any inverts yet, so as soon as I saw the white spots a few days after putting the blue tang in my tank, I knew it came from that particular LFS. So far my other fish show no symptoms. Coincidentally, a few hours ago, as I was watching my fish struggle to breathe, the LFS called me because I had ordered another fish for pickup and they were calling to see if I still wanted them to get the fish tomorrow. I told them about the blue tang I bought from them and they offered me a "discount on medication."

Up until now, I got the vast majority of my fish from LiveAquaria because of selection, ease and the 14-day guarantee. I didn't this time because I have read a lot of people recently saying how bad LiveAquaria has become.

Although, I do believe the outcome would have been the same putting my tang or the OP's in a brand new 10-gallon tank with no biological filter established and then start treatment, it definitely couldn't have been any worse than what just happened in my situation. I will say now, although not always practical, the best solution is to have an established QT up at all times, or at least a biological filter which can easily be added to a new QT/hospital tank.

I have been humbled.
Do you run UV? I have a 25w UV now for my tank and its amazing... I should have gotten it earlier. Running the flow around 500LPH which gives me 280,000µw/cm². strong enough for protoza but enough turnover for algae spores!
 
Do you run UV? I have a 25w UV now for my tank and its amazing... I should have gotten it earlier. Running the flow around 500LPH which gives me 280,000µw/cm². strong enough for protoza but enough turnover for algae spores!
I was just looking at UV yesterday and considering buying one. I don’t think my issues is ich, I think it’s something else.
 
I was just looking at UV yesterday and considering buying one. I don’t think my issues is ich, I think it’s something else.
:O. What could be worse than ich? I highly recommended an oversized Uv. That way you can kill both parasites and algae/bacteria
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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