My Acro collection/ Lagoon

[LuizW13]

I watched that some podcasts- but having an AIO, I'm quite limited on what I can can do. I've tried everything but turning one of my chambers into a fuge, which I will do when In the somewhat near future.

 

[Perry]

I watched that some podcasts- but having an AIO, I'm quite limited on what I can can do. I've tried everything but turning one of my chambers into a fuge, which I will do when In the somewhat near future.

I would avoid that unless you are diligent with maintenance, and not quite sure the fuge would impact ph that much. I suspect, given your options, kalkwasser, airline drawing fresh air(if possible), and modified recirculating C02 scrubber may be the "Hail Mary ". In this case, you have optimized to capacity, accept the values, and focus on stable nutrients. Lighting totally effects ph, not sure what you are doing there, but full spectrum is important on this and other fronts, ime..

 

[Perry]

A few minor changes, but biggest was ditching the tiles, and replanting the growouts to AF Frag Rocks. I really like them, they are quite porous, yet have enough weight to stay put. After a couple hours last night on the DT and this morning on the prop, most tiled transitioned.
This pic shows some of the cool smoothies I have on said plugs.

A couple more from the side

Side shot shows the cleanliness of the system, elbow grease- followed by Wednesday's dose of DIY Coral Snow with AF Bio S nitrifying bacteria. Then Saturdays 1.5 Teaspoon of Fauna Marin Rebiotic. Elbow grease- followed by 15 gallon water changes on Sunday.

 

[Sweet Reef Corals]

I was curious about those AF plugs. Are you at worried that they will break down before some of your slower growers get a crust over them?

Another question for you. I started a (2) 30B system with a 24g sump. Bare bottom. Lights are Orphek blue bars and T5’s. Highest par in the tank is 300. I cycled the system and let it run for 3 months with Aquabiomics rubble seeding it and the 40lbs of dead rock. I used it as a SPS QT for about 3 months and it did amazing! And then I found acro white bugs on some tender pieces that I didn’t run thru my 10 minute Bayer dip process. Instead of just using the interceptor chews, I had some Dr G’s left over from 3 years ago and used it. It didn’t kill them all. So I ended up having to dose the dog chews too. I did that at 8X strength I believe and I didn’t do a WC after the DrG’s. So it was a very strong treatment altogether. It has been 9 months and tons of water changes, bacteria additions and I just can’t get a test acro to stay alive. I have also struggled with PO4 bottoming out from day 1 If I don’t test every single day. 2 weeks into putting a few test SPS in, I lose PE and the tips start burning. Did you ever experience this with your BB system?? I am dumbfounded and about ready to shut the system down and reboot it…. Got any tips?

 

[coral reeftank]

I was curious about those AF plugs. Are you at worried that they will break down before some of your slower growers get a crust over them?

Another question for you. I started a (2) 30B system with a 24g sump. Bare bottom. Lights are Orphek blue bars and T5’s. Highest par in the tank is 300. I cycled the system and let it run for 3 months with Aquabiomics rubble seeding it and the 40lbs of dead rock. I used it as a SPS QT for about 3 months and it did amazing! And then I found acro white bugs on some tender pieces that I didn’t run thru my 10 minute Bayer dip process. Instead of just using the interceptor chews, I had some Dr G’s left over from 3 years ago and used it. It didn’t kill them all. So I ended up having to dose the dog chews too. I did that at 8X strength I believe and I didn’t do a WC after the DrG’s. So it was a very strong treatment altogether. It has been 9 months and tons of water changes, bacteria additions and I just can’t get a test acro to stay alive. I have also struggled with PO4 bottoming out from day 1 If I don’t test every single day. 2 weeks into putting a few test SPS in, I lose PE and the tips start burning. Did you ever experience this with your BB system?? I am dumbfounded and about ready to shut the system down and reboot it…. Got any tips?

A similar issue happened to me when I tried to begin my bb frag tank. It had been successfully running as a bb mushroom collection tank but I wanted to switch to sps. I had about 7 fish in a 60 gallon and could not keep the sps happy. They would go pale and the tips burnt.

I think I fixed this by

1) adding more biomedia
I added about 20 pounds of reborn
2 liters of zeolites over time
Deep sand sump. My sump has a refugium compartment that I just filled with 20 lbs of live sand.

2) feeding heavily
Aminos
Coral foods
Fish food
Live copepods
Phyto

3) more rock transplants
Luckily I have 20+ yr old system that I can pull rock from. This stuff is like magic sauce. Using rock from here I was able to start my friends brand new system into an sps dominated system in 6 month. I’d highly recommend you cycle some rocks in your ecologically stable system then transfer them into the ailing system.

 

[Perry]

I was curious about those AF plugs. Are you at worried that they will break down before some of your slower growers get a crust over them?

Another question for you. I started a (2) 30B system with a 24g sump. Bare bottom. Lights are Orphek blue bars and T5’s. Highest par in the tank is 300. I cycled the system and let it run for 3 months with Aquabiomics rubble seeding it and the 40lbs of dead rock. I used it as a SPS QT for about 3 months and it did amazing! And then I found acro white bugs on some tender pieces that I didn’t run thru my 10 minute Bayer dip process. Instead of just using the interceptor chews, I had some Dr G’s left over from 3 years ago and used it. It didn’t kill them all. So I ended up having to dose the dog chews too. I did that at 8X strength I believe and I didn’t do a WC after the DrG’s. So it was a very strong treatment altogether. It has been 9 months and tons of water changes, bacteria additions and I just can’t get a test acro to stay alive. I have also struggled with PO4 bottoming out from day 1 If I don’t test every single day. 2 weeks into putting a few test SPS in, I lose PE and the tips start burning. Did you ever experience this with your BB system?? I am dumbfounded and about ready to shut the system down and reboot it…. Got any tips?

Hey Jesse,
I actually did think about the plugs breaking down, but even after a rodi bath, swishing, rocks banging into each other, tumbling, etc, no real breakdown. I think they will do fine, I trust AF products, and will move over to tiles or domes or rubble if necessary

As far as BB, I think the treatments could have impacted the micro-biome, and in a bb system, you will be exposed. I did not experience loss, but after sand removal, I did get dinos. If cyano, or bacteria matting occurs, which it did in my case, I remove manually, and dose DIY Coral Snow with AF Bio S, nitrifying bacteria. I still do this every Wednesday, regardless, subsequent to scrubbing the display. This matting/cyano will suck phosphates down to zero. I gave been using Fauna Marin bi-weekly with great results, the corals love it and appear consume. Once you get carry over, and see a testable result, hold it steady through daily testing and dosing. If the BB system is detritus free, or kept in suspension, nutrients will stay very low, so feeding is huge! I found reef roids ti best the vest option of p04 additions. In my reef, it accounts for .06ppm per 1/4 tsp in my reef, and corals seem to like it.
My best tip is pull some rock and rubble from the main system, throw it in the sump/filtration area along side of biomedia. Seems like the corals aren't getting a crack at nutrients. Probiotic bacteria, not nitrifying bacteria will help. I am using Rebiotic ATM, but AF Pro Bio S is gold, so is Life Source, that stuff will liven up the micro-biome for sure. These are things I would do, dry rock is a Sponge, and without sand as a buffer, it can bottom nutrients out and starve corals no problem...

 

[Perry]

A similar issue happened to me when I tried to begin my bb frag tank. It had been successfully running as a bb mushroom collection tank but I wanted to switch to sps. I had about 7 fish in a 60 gallon and could not keep the sps happy. They would go pale and the tips burnt.

I think I fixed this by

1) adding more biomedia
I added about 20 pounds of reborn
2 liters of zeolites over time
Deep sand sump. My sump has a refugium compartment that I just filled with 20 lbs of live sand.

2) feeding heavily
Aminos
Coral foods
Fish food
Live copepods
Phyto

3) more rock transplants
Luckily I have 20+ yr old system that I can pull rock from. This stuff is like magic sauce. Using rock from here I was able to start my friends brand new system into an sps dominated system in 6 month. I’d highly recommend you cycle some rocks in your ecologically stable system then transfer them into the ailing system.

Our posts came in moments apart, and while worded different, I think we both convey the same general point
Hopefully Jesse gets that fixed up soon
Cheers brother!!!

 

[coral reeftank]

Our posts came in moments apart, and while worded different, I think we both convey the same general point
Hopefully Jesse gets that fixed up soon
Cheers brother!!!

Great minds think alike, hope this helps Jesse!

 

[Sweet Reef Corals]

A similar issue happened to me when I tried to begin my bb frag tank. It had been successfully running as a bb mushroom collection tank but I wanted to switch to sps. I had about 7 fish in a 60 gallon and could not keep the sps happy. They would go pale and the tips burnt.

I think I fixed this by

1) adding more biomedia
I added about 20 pounds of reborn
2 liters of zeolites over time
Deep sand sump. My sump has a refugium compartment that I just filled with 20 lbs of live sand.

2) feeding heavily
Aminos
Coral foods
Fish food
Live copepods
Phyto

3) more rock transplants
Luckily I have 20+ yr old system that I can pull rock from. This stuff is like magic sauce. Using rock from here I was able to start my friends brand new system into an sps dominated system in 6 month. I’d highly recommend you cycle some rocks in your ecologically stable system then transfer them into the ailing system.

Thanks Allen. I am going to PM you. I don’t want to hijack Perrys thread. But, you bring up some good suggestions.

 

[Sweet Reef Corals]

Hey Jesse,
I actually did think about the plugs breaking down, but even after a rodi bath, swishing, rocks banging into each other, tumbling, etc, no real breakdown. I think they will do fine, I trust AF products, and will move over to tiles or domes or rubble if necessary

As far as BB, I think the treatments could have impacted the micro-biome, and in a bb system, you will be exposed. I did not experience loss, but after sand removal, I did get dinos. If cyano, or bacteria matting occurs, which it did in my case, I remove manually, and dose DIY Coral Snow with AF Bio S, nitrifying bacteria. I still do this every Wednesday, regardless, subsequent to scrubbing the display. This matting/cyano will suck phosphates down to zero. I gave been using Fauna Marin bi-weekly with great results, the corals love it and appear consume. Once you get carry over, and see a testable result, hold it steady through daily testing and dosing. If the BB system is detritus free, or kept in suspension, nutrients will stay very low, so feeding is huge! I found reef roids ti best the vest option of p04 additions. In my reef, it accounts for .06ppm per 1/4 tsp in my reef, and corals seem to like it.
My best tip is pull some rock and rubble from the main system, throw it in the sump/filtration area along side of biomedia. Seems like the corals aren't getting a crack at nutrients. Probiotic bacteria, not nitrifying bacteria will help. I am using Rebiotic ATM, but AF Pro Bio S is gold, so is Life Source, that stuff will liven up the micro-biome for sure. These are things I would do, dry rock is a Sponge, and without sand as a buffer, it can bottom nutrients out and starve corals no problem...

That’s cool. I may have to try those out in my DT. I like how they taper down to a large footprint. It should look more natural than a frag plug.

Thank you for your input and suggestions.

I did just purchase some live Key West reef sand from FloridaPets.com in the hope that it can help seed a bigger load of beneficial bacteria that may have been damaged in the over treatment for the bugs.

I don’t have issues with cyano or dinos. Thankfully. I test PO4 every day and as you mentioned I either dose Roids (best for raising PO4) or NeoPhos to get the PO4 up above .03. I feed excessively. Pellet overload in the morning and a big dose of my home made frozen in the evening. It’s so excessive that I sometimes feel like I may be over polluting the water. I also forgot to mention that I have had. The skimmer disconnected for about 3 months with no change in SPS status. Also turned off my UV about 5 months ago. I just cannot understand how the system consumes this much PO4 after being up for over a year and not having any anaerobic zones to propagate anaerobic bacteria that consume PO4. I am completely baffled... I thought dry rock would bind PO4 until saturated and then it would level off. Well after 16 months I’m still struggling with PO4

I agree with you that it appears that the corals are starving, even though I test every day and make sure nutrients never bottom out. They just get dangerously close sometimes but never to 0. I am going to check out your suggestion to try probiotic bacteria. I have not tried that yet. I have only been dosing the nitrifying bacteria. What led you to those particular bacteria products?

 

[Perry]

That’s cool. I may have to try those out in my DT. I like how they taper down to a large footprint. It should look more natural than a frag plug.

Thank you for your input and suggestions.

I did just purchase some live Key West reef sand from FloridaPets.com in the hope that it can help seed a bigger load of beneficial bacteria that may have been damaged in the over treatment for the bugs.

I don’t have issues with cyano or dinos. Thankfully. I test PO4 every day and as you mentioned I either dose Roids (best for raising PO4) or NeoPhos to get the PO4 up above .03. I feed excessively. Pellet overload in the morning and a big dose of my home made frozen in the evening. It’s so excessive that I sometimes feel like I may be over polluting the water. I also forgot to mention that I have had. The skimmer disconnected for about 3 months with no change in SPS status. Also turned off my UV about 5 months ago. I just cannot understand how the system consumes this much PO4 after being up for over a year and not having any anaerobic zones to propagate anaerobic bacteria that consume PO4. I am completely baffled... I thought dry rock would bind PO4 until saturated and then it would level off. Well after 16 months I’m still struggling with PO4

I agree with you that it appears that the corals are starving, even though I test every day and make sure nutrients never bottom out. They just get dangerously close sometimes but never to 0. I am going to check out your suggestion to try probiotic bacteria. I have not tried that yet. I have only been dosing the nitrifying bacteria. What led you to those particular bacteria products?

Jesse,
The Probiotic bacteria isn't a nitrifying bacteria, it's tagged as de-nitrifying, and works well with bio-media, and in your case dry rock, essentially the same thing. However, it somehow helps in the transport mechanism to get P04 to coral polyps, simply put, they appear to be getting the last chance at the dinner table. Most times, based on anecdotal observation, a filament type algae, matting, cyano, or dinos, uglies if you will are the culprit to being aggressive at taking out P04 leaving starving sps behind to wither. Lps, softies, take meaty stuff when feeding, and seem unphased by this phenomenon.
Sps polyps, need bacteria, especially bacteria that has consumed p04, as this becomes the transport. So, focus more on the biome/diversity than p04/n03 levels, the corals need to get that, but don't just arbitrarily consume from the water column. In a mature rock/ live rock scenario, the micro-life outcompete the nasties, and why, bacteria...
Otherwise, move a crap ton of corals over all at once to this system, don't do teasers, load up that system, then all the bacteria needed/wanted is seeded.
I have done this SEVERAL times, think of this new system as a tank transfer.
Also, put those corals on plugs, put the rock in the sump, to keep out of light, that will help too.
These are just a few things that I have done.
FWIW, I am now using Fauna Marin Rebiotic, and this stuff is awesome, corals love it, kinda like a zeo mulm effect on corals and fish, you can see them trying to eat this stuff, super cool. My rocks are looking super clean

 

[Sweet Reef Corals]

Jesse,
The Probiotic bacteria isn't a nitrifying bacteria, it's tagged as de-nitrifying, and works well with bio-media, and in your case dry rock, essentially the same thing. However, it somehow helps in the transport mechanism to get P04 to coral polyps, simply put, they appear to be getting the last chance at the dinner table. Most times, based on anecdotal observation, a filament type algae, matting, cyano, or dinos, uglies if you will are the culprit to being aggressive at taking out P04 leaving starving sps behind to wither. Lps, softies, take meaty stuff when feeding, and seem unphased by this phenomenon.
Sps polyps, need bacteria, especially bacteria that has consumed p04, as this becomes the transport. So, focus more on the biome/diversity than p04/n03 levels, the corals need to get that, but don't just arbitrarily consume from the water column. In a mature rock/ live rock scenario, the micro-life outcompete the nasties, and why, bacteria...
Otherwise, move a crap ton of corals over all at once to this system, don't do teasers, load up that system, then all the bacteria needed/wanted is seeded.
I have done this SEVERAL times, think of this new system as a tank transfer.
Also, put those corals on plugs, put the rock in the sump, to keep out of light, that will help too.
These are just a few things that I gave done.
FWIW, I am now using Fauna Marin Rebiotic, and this stuff is awesome, corals love it, kinda like a zeo mulm effect on corals and fish, you can see them trying to eat this stuff, super cool. My rocks are looking super clean

Well said Perry. I have never even looked twice at the probiotic bacteria’s as I kinda looked at them as snake oil. But, I think it’s clear that I have likely damaged the biome of the system with the treatment. I am going to look into your suggestions. Thank you much!

 

[coral reeftank]

Jesse,
The Probiotic bacteria isn't a nitrifying bacteria, it's tagged as de-nitrifying, and works well with bio-media, and in your case dry rock, essentially the same thing. However, it somehow helps in the transport mechanism to get P04 to coral polyps, simply put, they appear to be getting the last chance at the dinner table. Most times, based on anecdotal observation, a filament type algae, matting, cyano, or dinos, uglies if you will are the culprit to being aggressive at taking out P04 leaving starving sps behind to wither. Lps, softies, take meaty stuff when feeding, and seem unphased by this phenomenon.
Sps polyps, need bacteria, especially bacteria that has consumed p04, as this becomes the transport. So, focus more on the biome/diversity than p04/n03 levels, the corals need to get that, but don't just arbitrarily consume from the water column. In a mature rock/ live rock scenario, the micro-life outcompete the nasties, and why, bacteria...
Otherwise, move a crap ton of corals over all at once to this system, don't do teasers, load up that system, then all the bacteria needed/wanted is seeded.
I have done this SEVERAL times, think of this new system as a tank transfer.
Also, put those corals on plugs, put the rock in the sump, to keep out of light, that will help too.
These are just a few things that I gave done.
FWIW, I am now using Fauna Marin Rebiotic, and this stuff is awesome, corals love it, kinda like a zeo mulm effect on corals and fish, you can see them trying to eat this stuff, super cool. My rocks are looking super clean

Been thinkin about trying the rebiotic, might have to use it now! I’ve been using Dr. Tims eco-balance which is said to target vibrio and be outcompeting any other pathogenic species as well.

 

[Perry]

Been thinkin about trying the rebiotic, might have to use it now! I’ve been using Dr. Tims eco-balance which is said to target vibrio and be outcompeting any other pathogenic species as well.

I personally do not feel like this is a coral/ nutrient thing, I think of it as a way of balancing the biome. The corals response, IME is more downstream. Balancing the biome and bacteria as a mechanism in which to restore diversity, perhaps too serving as a micro-life food source. Bio-media, installed and managed properly, simply extends this, but with less area, especially siporax, which is 40-60 times more porous than live rock. In my opinion, our systems cannot have enough live rock, rubble, sand, etc, these all serve as means of bacteria homing. If you could add more, why would you? Anecdotally, bacteria right? More, more, more.... We will not ever even think twice about dropping a chunk of "fresh" rock, or rubble into our tanks, yet why is the concept of adding probiotic bacteria, still, considered snake oil?
My display, due to 10xt5, 2 orphek OR3's, and SB Reef Bar Blue, is quite bright, and for this reason, I focus on my biological filtration being in the sump. There, it sits fairly non-lit, allowing sponge, dusters, worms, micro stars, and much much more micro life thrive. My lit area is restrained to reduce algae growth, yet still benefiting the bacteria and biodiversity on a mature reef. I have been re-cleaning 3 liters of siporax/Life Biofil(pumice), and preparing to install into the sump. I also dose KZ Sponge Power, this is mainly for the micro-life, with an added benefit of glowing tips. Spong inside the sump on the rocks is RIDIDCULOUS....
That said, my display, and prop tank run bare bottom, with limited rock in the tanks themselves, but again placed in an area where light does not allow for algaes. This way, the true focus is on micro life itself, not algae/plant/coral life.
I am now re-thinking why Zeovit itself has been misunderstood for so many years, SunnyX helped, to bridge, in my mind why the pulsing of their zeolites becomes such an advantage to supplement feeding of corals and fish, and why the concept is brilliant. Take away the blue bottles, likely trace, which zeolites are removing, part of the marketing ploy, and focus on bacteria, zeolites, and bacteria mulm release. Free food, but with the added benefit of shaking off the bacteria, allowing to create a new film, which in turn reduces nutrients(Po4). Now, the shaking of the stones release the mulm, which is bacteria, which has mostly p04, the coral polyps consume as a food source, therefore getting the proper uptake of the said po4.
Brilliant
So, instead of using zeolites, think of Re-biotic as the exact same thing, I believe this bacteria has a snow effect that looks very similar to a zeolite mulm release, just more, and for longer. But, it adheres to the rock, walls, plastics, glass, and within 30 minutes, return pump disabled, pumps running full blast in tank, and this stuff is gone! Where did it go?

 

[Perry]

@Sweet Reef Corals
Jesse,
I replied to Allen above, but those thoughts extend to you and your situation, especially as it relates to bare bottom. At least to me, how I run. The goal is zero settling of detritus, all moved to the sump, whether display, or prop. Feeding, whether corals, or fish, or bacteria dosing, or even DIY Coral Snow dose, I allow those to be contained within the system until I feel the system has processed, whatever is going in. When I restore the return pump, which feeds both systems, anything blown away, or caught in suspension moves into a filter sock. Again, I have a good amount of mature rock, covered with micro life, light restricted. I am actually going to eventually pull the socks and just allow detritus to build in the sump, and vacume once a month. This, to me seems the most logical approach to all that is being discussed, and benefiting from food sources we often are pulling out. Skimmer, no way, I run dry though, but it accounts for .1 on my ph, cannot give that up, lol...

 

[Sweet Reef Corals]

I’m reading about your rebiotic on Premium Aquatics. I am a bit confused with the description.

Restore Bacterial Stability in Saltwater Aquariums
Fauna Marin Rebiotic 100% Natural is a unique freeze-fried bacteria mix used for restoring bacterial stability in saltwater aquariums.

Adding these strains helps replenish bacterial stability and repair existing bacteria films damaged by sudden system changes or “Old Tank Syndrome.”

If the bacteria is freeze dried, I would think it’s non living. So you would not be introducing new strains. You would be adding dead strains. Help me understand this Perry

 

[coral reeftank]

I personally do not feel like this is a coral/ nutrient thing, I think of it as a way of balancing the biome. The corals response, IME is more downstream. Balancing the biome and bacteria as a mechanism in which to restore diversity, perhaps too serving as a micro-life food source. Bio-media, installed and managed properly, simply extends this, but with less area, especially siporax, which is 40-60 times more porous than live rock. In my opinion, our systems cannot have enough live rock, rubble, sand, etc, these all serve as means of bacteria homing. If you could add more, why would you? Anecdotally, bacteria right? More, more, more.... We will not ever even think twice about dropping a chunk of "fresh" rock, or rubble into our tanks, yet why is the concept of adding probiotic bacteria, still, considered snake oil?
My display, due to 10xt5, 2 orphek OR3's, and SB Reef Bar Blue, is quite bright, and for this reason, I focus on my biological filtration being in the sump. There, it sits fairly non-lit, allowing sponge, dusters, worms, micro stars, and much much more micro life thrive. My lit area is restrained to reduce algae growth, yet still benefiting the bacteria and biodiversity on a mature reef. I have been re-cleaning 3 liters of siporax/Life Biofil(pumice), and preparing to install into the sump. I also dose KZ Sponge Power, this is mainly for the micro-life, with an added benefit of glowing tips. Spong inside the sump on the rocks is RIDIDCULOUS....
That said, my display, and prop tank run bare bottom, with limited rock in the tanks themselves, but again placed in an area where light does not allow for algaes. This way, the true focus is on micro life itself, not algae/plant/coral life.
I am now re-thinking why Zeovit itself has been misunderstood for so many years, SunnyX helped, to bridge, in my mind why the pulsing of their zeolites becomes such an advantage to supplement feeding of corals and fish, and why the concept is brilliant. Take away the blue bottles, likely trace, which zeolites are removing, part of the marketing ploy, and focus on bacteria, zeolites, and bacteria mulm release. Free food, but with the added benefit of shaking off the bacteria, allowing to create a new film, which in turn reduces nutrients(Po4). Now, the shaking of the stones release the mulm, which is bacteria, which has mostly p04, the coral polyps consume as a food source, therefore getting the proper uptake of the said po4.
Brilliant
So, instead of using zeolites, think of Re-biotic as the exact same thing, I believe this bacteria has a snow effect that looks very similar to a zeolite mulm release, just more, and for longer. But, it adheres to the rock, walls, plastics, glass, and within 30 minutes, return pump disabled, pumps running full blast in tank, and this stuff is gone! Where did it go?

Yup, yup, yup! Couldn’t agree more. This is my exact thoughts as well. Everytime I see large aquaculture facilities or coral operations there is always a large cryptic sump with outrageous amounts of liverock and life.
You can never have enough rock!

 

[Perry]

I’m reading about your rebiotic on Premium Aquatics. I am a bit confused with the description.

Restore Bacterial Stability in Saltwater Aquariums
Fauna Marin Rebiotic 100% Natural is a unique freeze-fried bacteria mix used for restoring bacterial stability in saltwater aquariums.

Adding these strains helps replenish bacterial stability and repair existing bacteria films damaged by sudden system changes or “Old Tank Syndrome.”

If the bacteria is freeze dried, I would think it’s non living. So you would not be introducing new strains. You would be adding dead strains. Help me understand this Perry

You actually charge the bacteria with your tank water, mixing it with a stirrer, or whisk, whatever you want. This then sits for an hour to activate, again, in about a liter of YOUR tank water. This is then dosed to the tank, no skimmer for 6 hours. I contain in the system until is gone, this ensures it is adhering to all surfaces. I then put the return pump back in service, and restore the skimmer the following morning. I typically do this at 1 hour prior to lights off, this is when feeder polyps come out in search of food.

 

[Perry]

@Sweet Reef
btw, I would imagine this has WAY MORE life than bottled bacteria. IMO, the best, while more of nitrifying bacteria, in Prodibio Bio Digest, this in a sealed capsule, no air, then break the seal, it goes live. The freeze dried stuff is common with many companies and other forms.

 

[Sweet Reef Corals]

Thanks Perry, just found a video explaining that!