SC Aquariums 50 gallon PNP

That's why I'm going with Red Sea blue bucket, it has IMO the sweet spot for parameters.
Alk dKH 7.8 - 8.2
Ca 420 - 440
Mag 1250 - 1310

Just a guess but you could probably go a year on water changes alone before dosing anything.
 
That's why I'm going with Red Sea blue bucket, it has IMO the sweet spot for parameters.
Alk dKH 7.8 - 8.2
Ca 420 - 440
Mag 1250 - 1310

Just a guess but you could probably go a year on water changes alone before dosing anything.

At one point I had my mind made up that I was going with Red Sea Blue bucket but then I changed it. You are tempting me back towards going that route.

Odd that they say to use red sea blue bucket for an SPS system and Coral Pro for a mixed reef. Wonder what their thinking is on that one.

https://www.redseafish.com/red-sea-salts/red-sea-salt/

https://www.redseafish.com/red-sea-salts/coral-pro-salt/
 
That's why I'm going with Red Sea blue bucket, it has IMO the sweet spot for parameters.
Alk dKH 7.8 - 8.2
Ca 420 - 440
Mag 1250 - 1310

Just a guess but you could probably go a year on water changes alone before dosing anything.

Also I wonder if Alk would be too low. Like let's say your alk dropped to 7. Then you do a 10% water change, it's not going to bump it up much. Then you are low on Alk unless you either dose Alk or do a large water change right? But it seems Tropic Marin also says to use their pro reef salt if you want to maintain between 6-8 dKH when that salt has a dKH of 7-8 as well. So maybe I am missing something.
 
hmm those reads were very interesting. had to dust off the old A- in general chemistry :cool: knowledge from like 10 years ago lol. probably should read that article again without the tv on the in the background..

i had run into some nitrate issues for a month or two and chalked up slowed growth to that, but i wonder if it was because i had my levels messed up. using the RC/CP i'd have pretty high alk and calcium, but low pH in the tank since I haven't had the doors or widows open lately while also not dosing kalk. and honestly I've tested magnesium a handful of times at best. i assumed my levels were somewhat high, but high better than low so all was good.

and i'm kind of lost on the role of magnesium. the article almost make it sound bad, but necessary? almost sounds invasive, but necessary due to not letting the calcium carbonate run wild.

so to tie it all in with what hemmdog said in the screenshot, if you want to have high everything, you want high pH to allow for better uptake? natural seawater levels being "normal" elevated levels being "supersaturated" but high pH being needed there. then low level just stifling growth?
 
Also I wonder if Alk would be too low. Like let's say your alk dropped to 7. Then you do a 10% water change, it's not going to bump it up much. Then you are low on Alk unless you either dose Alk or do a large water change right? But it seems Tropic Marin also says to use their pro reef salt if you want to maintain between 6-8 dKH when that salt has a dKH of 7-8 as well. So maybe I am missing something.

They're not mutually exclusive, some dose to get away from regular water changes, some do water changes regularly to not dose. BUT plenty of people dose and do regular water changes.
Seriously, honestly, I think you're too set on a specific number and what you really need is keeping stable numbers at where your corals look healthiest.
I believe temp, salinity, lighting and flow to be just as or even more important.
If you don't have proper flow or lighting those numbers don't mean s#*t
All sorts of people here grow corals without dosing and just do water changes.
I'd go out on a limb and say most don't dose, if when they do it's after a year or two. I could be wrong though.
You're also presuming things that may or may not really happen; like "Let's say your alk dropped to 7 then 10% wc" yada yada yada...if you set the goal posts wherever you want you can make anything sound confusing as all hell.o
I say pick a salt and stick to it UNLESS you have to change for reason x, y or z.
I also say watch params more often than before because of all the new corals and the nem, THAT DOESN'T MEAN ADJUSTING OR DOSING MORE OFTEN. I say this so you can monitor and graph what your levels are doing so you can make a new water change schedule based on the new graphs you've made.
After new water change schedule if you have issues with elements depleting too fast or unevenly to a point the water changes won't help...then start to dose.
But that's just my opinion take it all with a grain of salt. No pun intended
 
They're not mutually exclusive, some dose to get away from regular water changes, some do water changes regularly to not dose. BUT plenty of people dose and do regular water changes.
Seriously, honestly, I think you're too set on a specific number and what you really need is keeping stable numbers at where your corals look healthiest.
I believe temp, salinity, lighting and flow to be just as or even more important.
If you don't have proper flow or lighting those numbers don't mean s#*t
All sorts of people here grow corals without dosing and just do water changes.
I'd go out on a limb and say most don't dose, if when they do it's after a year or two. I could be wrong though.
You're also presuming things that may or may not really happen; like "Let's say your alk dropped to 7 then 10% wc" yada yada yada...if you set the goal posts wherever you want you can make anything sound confusing as all hell.o
I say pick a salt and stick to it UNLESS you have to change for reason x, y or z.
I also say watch params more often than before because of all the new corals and the nem, THAT DOESN'T MEAN ADJUSTING OR DOSING MORE OFTEN. I say this so you can monitor and graph what your levels are doing so you can make a new water change schedule based on the new graphs you've made.
After new water change schedule if you have issues with elements depleting too fast or unevenly to a point the water changes won't help...then start to dose.
But that's just my opinion take it all with a grain of salt. No pun intended

Classic @Philipgonzales3 overthinking. I guess for now if I am within the ranges I shouldn't worry about it too much. As long as I am within 7-11 Alk, 350-450 calcium, etc, etc...

I always try to anticipate what the expected results may be and try coming up with a plan, albeit my plans end up changing so much because what I anticipate is always changing.

I actually bought another used MP10. I always figure it's better to have stuff and not need it than vice versa.

I'm still trying to wrap my head around what corals like what type of flow and what this type of flow visually looks like.
 
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To see flow: take any plastic stick and tie a few pieces of 6" to 8" pieces of string or butcher twine, or the tinsel things off a girls bike, hold it the tank and observe the flow. Not exactly the precision you strive for, but, allows you to see flow and patterns.
 
I've been informed that they are called "streamers" and highly desirable for a little girl. Don't make one cry stealing it off her handlebars in town. She'll press charges.

Instead of making little girls cry, you can also put an airstone next to a powerhead or your return pump to see flow patterns.
 
I've been informed that they are called "streamers" and highly desirable for a little girl. Don't make one cry stealing it off her handlebars in town. She'll press charges.
Instead of making little girls cry, you can also put an airstone next to a powerhead or your return pump to see flow patterns.

I think my diatoms will give me a good indication lol. My torch too. I have a few airstone pumps lying around. Might try a battery powered one first and see if it helps any. If not I guess I'm going bike shopping...
 
No lol, just was curious what the goo on your rocks was and why. Jury’s out.

Yeah I just cut the whites down some last night. I think my whites were running too high for too long. I think it's just diatoms from what I can tell.
 
You may agitate some of the corals with the air bubbles a little. They'll slime and close up some, but will be ok. Just be aware. I do the nano bubble scrub at night for 5 hours.

Ok cool. I know my GSP closed up one time when I brushed it turning over a snail. I was like really? I noticed my Ricordia get smaller when I vacuumed the sand the other day. Pretty neat reaction I suppose. My fiancee said she thought I killed the tourch the first time she saw it closed lol. It "goes to bed" every night. It actually closes before the whites and blues turn off. Pretty neat how it knows my light schedule or maybe it's on it's own schedule and could care less about mine! Haha
 
They are a living thing. My corn fields will roll up its leaves during a drought or over 100 degrees to conserve moisture in the plant itself. Less surface area, so it knows how to stay alive. I can even plant a seed upside down, & because of gravity, it knows which way to grow.
 
so Phil you were right about kalkwasser being similar to a 1 part alk/calcium supplement. I watched a bunch of videos last night looking into it, I thought this one was particularly interesting:


I also came across some BRS/WWC videos and they intentionally keep their tanks at 8.6 alk/490 calcium and I forget what mag, lol. so I guess my levels should be fine, what I also need to account for is I only have 1 AI prime on my tank, I really probably need to add another.
 
So I definetly think my whites were too high. I was running them at 50% of what the blue channel was at but for 12 hours instead of just following the suggested ramp up and ramp down that SBReefLights recommends on their spreadsheet. I just opted to follow the spreadsheet to a T for now. Peak is still the same at 40/20 but whites are at 20% for a much shorter duration, ramp up and ramp down are longer duration for the whites now and are even off during some stages of the ramp up and ramp down as suggested.

My diatoms were getting pretty bad. This is a 100% better. You can just imagine how the diatoms looked before haha.

20190319_171125.jpg 20190319_171118.jpg 20190319_171133.jpg 20190319_171231.jpg 20190319_171226.jpg 20190319_171239.jpg 20190319_181836.jpg 20190319_182929.jpg
 
So I definetly think my whites were too high. I was running them at 50% of what the blue channel was at but for 12 hours instead of just following the suggested ramp up and ramp down that SBReefLights recommends on their spreadsheet. I just opted to follow the spreadsheet to a T for now. Peak is still the same at 40/20 but whites are at 20% for a much shorter duration, ramp up and ramp down are longer duration for the whites now and are even off during some stages of the ramp up and ramp down as suggested.

My diatoms were getting pretty bad. This is a 100% better. You can just imagine how the diatoms looked before haha.

20190319_171125.jpg 20190319_171118.jpg 20190319_171133.jpg 20190319_171231.jpg 20190319_171226.jpg 20190319_171239.jpg 20190319_181836.jpg 20190319_182929.jpg
You loveddddd your white spectrum lol.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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