Slow stn and at a loss

Snails not moving also makes me think magnesium being high but I see triton says it's in range.
I tested mag today and it was at 1350 well i didn't test it but my girl did she's way better then me at that test she got within ten of tritons both times she's good.
Also checked salinity mutiple times ( I did this one not my girl) got 35 on every refractometer I own and also my old hydrometer
 
Offense to what?
Thanks for all ur help and I agree with what tuna said that's why I shut off the po4 media after the triton test I'm waiting on my girl to get back to me about what it is right now. Also why I'm thanking him for his input I just want to get to the bottom of it before I kill any more corals
I do know @2una and when he talks... I listen.
He could be off on this call but, he knows his stuff!!!

You guys have a good night.
 

Hmmm but at what you thought was 0.03 before it came out icp at 0.007 yeah?
So if we applied the same that would put you at 0.014 perhaps now.
I've had this double hanna ulr reading/half icp value myself & no longer have a lot of faith in what the ulr has to say.
The newer black box red sea kits PO4 ain't too bad - the one with their joint No3/Po4 kit in - the algae one. Might be worthwhile having something else to compare with to keep the ulr honest. Their separate Po4 one i'm not sure if its the same range or not.
 
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What happen to cause this:
Carbon got into the aquarium.
Over reaction and multi water changes in a row.
Lighting issues corals where already stressed before the carbon.
Once corals are stressed they are easy targets for bacteria infections.
(STN&RTN) Small frags are very easy to get bacteria infections. Just had our frag swap and so many vendors sell fresh cut frags anymore.
 
I don't see a chemical cause from the Triton report.

The carbon release might cause issues in a variety of ways (certain trace elements dropped too low, light unusually bright, direct uptake and damage to corals), but the long lag time (a month) seems to suggest otherwise.

I agree an infection might be the cause. I'm not sure what to do if it is.
 
Just a shot in the dark here but maybe get a cheap carbon monoxide tester. They plug into a electrical outlet but you can put it on an extension cord so it sits on the floor in your laundry room. Your furnace or dryer or water heater may have a small leak. Not enough to effect you but maybe your sump on the floor. Just a thought.
 
What happen to cause this:
Carbon got into the aquarium.
Over reaction and multi water changes in a row.
Lighting issues corals where already stressed before the carbon.
Once corals are stressed they are easy targets for bacteria infections.
(STN&RTN) Small frags are very easy to get bacteria infections. Just had our frag swap and so many vendors sell fresh cut frags anymore.

I don't see a chemical cause from the Triton report.

The carbon release might cause issues in a variety of ways (certain trace elements dropped too low, light unusually bright, direct uptake and damage to corals), but the long lag time (a month) seems to suggest otherwise.

I agree an infection might be the cause. I'm not sure what to do if it is.

Good call guys, It could be a bacteria infection.

Just to add:
To myself, Justin's 2 water changes was not and over reaction. What else was he supposed to do?
Let the carbon stay, suspended in the water column?

We're talking a total reef "carbon-black out" and the massive carbon dump was, ROX :(

Thanks, Freddie
 
What I have have done when I did this. An I have had this happen in the past. You don't keep aquariums for 54 years and not have something like this happen several times. So what I did was fire up my diatomaceous earth filter and remove it all in 15 minutes. Every hobbyist should have a DE filter in their trick bag it has saved my %ss many times now.
When you go into fast reaction mode it never ends well.
 
What I have have done when I did this. An I have had this happen in the past. You don't keep aquariums for 54 years and not have something like this happen several times. So what I did was fire up my diatomaceous earth filter and remove it all in 15 minutes. Every hobbyist should have a DE filter in their trick bag it has saved my %ss many times now.
...:rolleyes:
........ ;Writing

:D
 
My fish are fine

Im sure someone will correct me - but corals also release toxins into the water - when they are distressed/dying. Then a little ammonia is produced etc, after they die. etc. Then more things die, more toxins, more death, etc. In any case - seems like something unrelated to carbon (infection/toxin/contamination) is happening.
 
Im sure someone will correct me - but corals also release toxins into the water - when they are distressed/dying. Then a little ammonia is produced etc, after they die. etc. Then more things die, more toxins, more death, etc. In any case - seems like something unrelated to carbon (infection/toxin/contamination) is happening.
He has an SPS dominate reef.

JMO
It would take certain strains of "plays" to go off and nuke a reef like that, and it would be a "quick death".

Thanks for your input.
 
He has an SPS dominate reef.

JMO
It would take certain strains of "plays" to go off and nuke a reef like that, and it would be a "quick death".

Thanks for your input.

Well - yeah - there are at least a couple LPS in the tank - and who knows whats dying in the rock (from the carbon the lights - or another problem, resulting from the attempts at fixing the other problem. Snails 'not moving' suggests a toxin or chemical of some kind an infection would be unlikely to affect snails and coral'. My point was it sounds like something in the water that is causing a cascade. Of course the snails not moving may not be related - meaning infection is more likely. It also sounds like at first it was a quick death (the monti's all died overnight on the 14th). Reading all of the posts again - it may also be a bunch of unrelated issues and changes to the tank that are now causing decreased resistance in the coral, etc. The triton report have not reflected what start3ed the problem - or what is continuing the problem (depending on when it was sent and the turnaround time and the symptoms present when it was sent in)
 
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PS - is the 'STN' from the 'top down' or the 'bottom up'. any pictures of it? close up?
 
Hmmm but at what you thought was 0.03 before it came out icp at 0.007 yeah?
So if we applied the same that would put you at 0.014 perhaps now.
I've had this double hanna ulr reading/half icp value myself & no longer have a lot of faith in what the ulr has to say.
The newer black box red sea kits PO4 ain't too bad - the one with their joint No3/Po4 kit in - the algae one. Might be worthwhile having something else to compare with to keep the ulr honest. Their separate Po4 one i'm not sure if its the same range or not.
I used the old Red Sea phosphate test on this one
 
Just a shot in the dark here but maybe get a cheap carbon monoxide tester. They plug into a electrical outlet but you can put it on an extension cord so it sits on the floor in your laundry room. Your furnace or dryer or water heater may have a small leak. Not enough to effect you but maybe your sump on the floor. Just a thought.
I would agree but ph is fine wouldn't high co2 caise low ph?
 

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