Spot on Bimaculatus Anthias

@Dreadnaught You're in a tight spot, my friend. By not continuing to treat with antibiotics there is a chance the infection could return. :(

I typically treat until all visible symptoms are gone and even then the fish gets a waiting period in non-medicated water before being placed in the DT.
 
Ok. The more I think about it the more I think I'll leave her in QT. I hope she gets fed enough and survives the week. I'm going to move the other 2 to reduce competition and waste.
 
I'm way late to the party, but I would leave him in QT. The longer he has in the meds, the better.
 
I mixed up some meds in food. Left a detailed set of instructions. I am having her dose the cocktail on Monday and everything minus the Duran on Thursday. I get home late Friday and will do a water change then.
 
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I'm doing another round of Anthia: 1 Female Bimaculatus and 2 Dispar from Live Aquaria (again). As you know, my last set had intestinal worms and the nasty gram negative bacterial infections. Any thoughts on treating their food with the antibiotic cocktail from the outset?
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@Humblefish @melypr1985 One of these Lyretail Anthia appear to be in the early stages of a bacterial infection. I last dosed Prazipro on 10/21. I performed a 50% water change tonight and started Carbon. Do I remember Prazipro is only active for 3 days? I would like to start the MP/F2/KP cocktail tonight. Do you think it's ok or should I run Carbon all night first and start in the morning?
 
@Humblefish @melypr1985 One of these Lyretail Anthia appear to be in the early stages of a bacterial infection. I last dosed Prazipro on 10/21. I performed a 50% water change tonight and started Carbon. Do I remember Prazipro is only active for 3 days? I would like to start the MP/F2/KP cocktail tonight. Do you think it's ok or should I run Carbon all night first and start in the morning?

With the water change I think it's ok to start the meds. These infections can move quickly so it's best to start them as soon as you notice it IME.
 
What are you using for filtration? My suspect is water quality issues are playing a part in the issues you are experiencing. Like we do with our main tanks the quarantine systems needs to be a fully functioning cycled system.
 
I don't rely on biological filtration in QT. My understanding these medications wipe bacteria populations out. I do have a couple sponge filters in each tank but I have no reliance on them. I do a 25-50% water change during the week and 50-100% water change on the weekends. I monitor my ammonia. My water comes from my DT (400G system). I have 2 QT tanks going, this is my 3rd round of fish and only have had problems with Anthia once the fish are acclimated and eating. I change Anthia water much more than other tanks. I have had no problems with Achilles Tang, Dragnets and several other delicate fish.
 
That is a big misnomer in the hobby and my guess is most of the fish deaths that occur in quarantine systems are due to water quality issues. Even a small amount of ammonia does significant damage to the fish and symptoms like this is what start to show up. Consider using something like a marine pure ceramic block that is fully cycled and can handle processing of ammonia. It will probably save you money in the long run with reduced water changes and fish loss. All of the medications will still be effective although a small amount does get processed by the bacteria. For example I lose 10% of the copper over a week. However for the entire time the fish is in quarantine I don't have to do a water change with a considerable biological support system in place
 
My understanding these medications wipe bacteria populations out.

Actually, while meds will likely put a dent in bacteria populations, they will quickly bounce back and be fine for the duration of QT.
 

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