The best SALT you have used...

Thanks Randy! I may go to plain old IO. I don't need the 11+ dKh of RC anyway. Could cut my cost by 1/3 and make big batches of water at one time.

I do love how quickly the HW dissolves and clears.
 
[
I'm asking why you think TM Pro or other "high quality" salt mixes would have more trace elements such as manganese or cobalt.

From the published salt mix analyses that I have seen, more expensive salts do not generally have more trace metals (such as cobalt or manganese).
I dunno I was under the assumption that the "PRO" version was geared toward adding in elements that basic salt didnt and therefore would cover these elements in their mix. Im obviously mistaken.
 
[

I dunno I was under the assumption that the "PRO" version was geared toward adding in elements that basic salt didnt and therefore would cover these elements in their mix. Im obviously mistaken.

While their web site description of their salt mix does contain some chemical inaccuracies (they presmably do not add the toxic molecule bromate to the Classic mix, they must mean borate), what they seem to be claiming is that the Pro contains more calcium and magnesium and perhaps less alkalinity than their standard mix:

"
Features:
The pharmaceutical grade sea salt especially for modern reef aquaria.

Tropic Marin® PRO-REEF Sea Salt has been designed to meet the special requirements of reef aquariums with optimized concentrations of calcium and magnesium, which promote the growth of corals. The lower buffering and the correct pH value serve to stabilize the natural water values, and particularly, the hardness of carbonates, even with the use of calcium reactors. Natural and stable conditions for delicate marine life are achieved only by accurately balancing all influencing factors.
"

while the Tropic Marin Classic says:

"
Features:
Pure, pharmaceutical grade sea salt containing all trace elements found in natural seawater.

From (osmosis-) water to seawater. Tropic Marin® Sea Salt CLASSIC is made up of all of the macro elements and trace elements in a natural balance, contained within the ocean, and it is free from artificial additives, nitrates and phosphates. The trace elements remain completely soluble in the mixed crystals. Contains appropriate amounts of carbonates and bromates which stabilize the aquariums alkalinity and pH."
 
Interesting, at the time I believe I chose this mix for the lower alk with the intent of carbon dosing. It has worked well for that but seeing some of the elements that are low I think there has to be a better trade off for getting the right dkh in a salt mix. I'd take higher alk and deal with that if I knew all trace and main elements were in the mix.
 
Interesting, at the time I believe I chose this mix for the lower alk with the intent of carbon dosing. It has worked well for that but seeing some of the elements that are low I think there has to be a better trade off for getting the right dkh in a salt mix. I'd take higher alk and deal with that if I knew all trace and main elements were in the mix.

You can take any mix you want and drop the alkalinity with muriatic acid. :)
 
hw-Marinemix, http://www.hw-wiegandt.de/hw-marinemix-professionaleng.html

It was my favorite, used for many years. When I could no longer it locally I used Reef Crystals for the past 10 years. I have been using Red Sea Pro for the past couple of months, it seems to be good but it runs my Mg levels high 1600-1700 ppm. But that may be due to the fact that I use Seachem buffers and calcium supplements.
This is the same salt that I use now and I love it. Great stuff!
 
Preface - anything I say here is a reflection of my opinion based on personal experience or that of local people whose results I can quantify. Many other things such as water quality from the source, housekeeping, etc., can affect your results. Your mileage may vary. Tax, tag, and title not included. Some assembly required. Professional driver on closed course - do not try this at home...

Hello, Dr. Holmes-Farley,

I use the HW Reefer salt. When I say "hotter", the mix comes in at higher levels of ca/mg/alk than, say, RC or Kent, which I consider as softie and FOWLR salt.

@ other posters: Regarding stability issues, the TM Pro was horrible for me. That was the one I couldn't remember the name of. One can see my angry post over at the "reefing centrally" forum from about 5-7 years ago. I stopped using RSCP because of algae blooms, and I was picking up more than trace amounts of NO3 and PO4 in it - I would call those levels unacceptable for such a hyped product.

Regarding the price of the HW Reefer salt, I pick up salt on sale and free shipping. So it ends up rather less than one would think. I don't think I've ever paid over $55 a box.

Actually, to put a very succinct point on all of this, salt is not salt is not salt. Regardless of directions we all try to point out to others, we all have our preferences and everyone will go their own way. "Two roads diverge in a yellow wood..."

I like the HW Reefer. A very good friend of mine uses RC and grows fabulous corals at $50-150 a frag. Another one swears by Kent and has great luck.

Here's how I see it based on the reefers and FOWLR's I know personally (no offense at anyone here intended):
  1. IO or RC - Stability, cheap, easy to get. It's OK stuff. It's clean, and you can have good results with it.
  2. Kent - solid, good price, fairly stable, if you're dosing and have lot's of SPS, it works great.
  3. HW products - in my case REEFER, stable, great starting parameters for SPS and LPS, meets expectations, can be pricey but is a solid product - IMHO, this is what RSCP should be trying to emulate.
  4. TM, TM Pro and RSCP - expensive, unstable, does not meet expectations, and is not clean regarding NO3 and PO4 (my personal experience and opinion only), lots of precipitate. I realize that a lot of people use these, and I say that if you have good luck with it, I fully support your choice. They were not good choices for me. The RSCP is a beastly item simply because it is harvested from near-shore waters and is not a synthetic. The TM Pro was just awful, swinging from 6-11+ DkH and low ca/mg. Unstable like you wouldn't believe.
  5. Seachem and Salinity - only used once or twice in a salt crisis, no issues, can't provide an opinion.
  6. The salt you mix yourself from liquids - can't remember the name, one of our club members used it and loved it. Had great results, but I imagine that if you don't follow instructions well, this is not the salt for you.
  7. Brightwell - I used for 1 year. Absolutely no better than RC in my opinion, was a finer grind, this one is way too much money for what it is - "meh". Buy the RC and save up for that new frag or fish with the savings!
Personally, I think this is why there are Fords, GMs, and Toyotas - odd man out, I own two Subarus... Everyone has a choice and through experience, we all will use what we think best. Over the course of our hobby experiences, we will refine our choices to what we think is the Holy Grail of whatever we are using.

Anecdote: I was using RSCP and my corals sucked the hind *****. Pale color, poor polyp extension, algae blooms, and so forth. Could not shake PO4 and NO3, and tried everything known to us. Could not locate the source. One day I ran out of RSCP and grabbed a bucket of Seachem from my LFS. Corals changed in two weeks - not fragtastic, just better appearance and life. Algae started to die. Nothing else changed. I already use kalkwasser as ATO water and am constantly running a Geo 612 Ca reactor. I generally run my tank at 450+ ca, 1300 mg, DkH at 11, and sp gr at 1.026 on a calibrated spectrometer. Temp is set at 80°F +/- .2 deg, and I run a 10 hr total light period under an ATI 36 X 8 bulb Sunpower fixture. Water TDS is zero.

I had a little RSCP in the bucket, and tested the batch by making one gallon, aerated/mixed for 2 hours. If you mix it for more than two hours, Red Sea will be happy to personally tell you that if you mix more than two hours, the salt has been overmixed and basically all of the "extra" ca, alk, and mg will precipitate out. There is even a 2 hr warning on the bucket. Anyway, I tested the batch, and then made one more and tested it as well.

Results:
TDS - 450-550. Zero prior to the salt addition to the water.
Alk - 7.85 DkH
Ca - 390
Mg - 1260
NO3 - in excess of 20ppm
PO4 - 6ppm

So, for a salt that is supposed to be "super hot" parameter-wise, nope, not here. And, feeding my algae to boot. I was pretty torqued off. Waste of money, damaged livestock. As Turbo B, the rapper from the '90's group Snap! said, "Don't believe the hype is a sequel..."

I saw the ad for the "new product" salt at BRS, and did some research on some boards in Germany and the UK. Lots of people using it, swearing by it, not at it as my case was with RSCP.

Bought three boxes, and continued my regular water change schedule and housekeeping habits. Changed nothing for a year.

Immediately, my livestock perked up, and my SPSs started not only to improve, but to grow - A LOT. FAST. Algae - gone. Super clean mixing, and I can mix it for 5 minutes or five days and the parameters remain rock solid, batch after batch.

So, I'm sold...

Best,

Kevin, AKA "K-to-the-d-oh-double-gee". Actually, that's true too.
Can you please tell us where you can buy the HW Reefer for that great price?
 
Hi everyone
I have used Red-Sea salt for plenty of time and I'm satisfied with it, I have LPS corals and they are good.
Now I have bought a bigger and larger tank to keep both LPS and SPS, so this is my question:
Should i change my salt? In my country (Iran) we have these brands:
Brightwell
Kent-marine
Deltamarine
TUNZE
SilBerman
AVISA
Red-Sea
Blue-Treasure
Cove
Marinium
Seachem
Reeflowers
Aquacraft
But I can buy other brands from Turkey or Dubai or China.
What is the best SALT you have used.
Thanks
Ali,
I'm still a rookie in the hobby but, I believe, we can reach good results with all these brands. The point is to follow a line. Do not change the salt very often I think isthe main point. By the way I'm using tropic Marin.
Best regards
 
Ali,
I'm still a rookie in the hobby but, I believe, we can reach good results with all these brands. The point is to follow a line. Do not change the salt very often I think isthe main point.
Best regards

Why do you think changing between good salts is an issue?
 
Randy, so are you saying that if you want to have no nitrate and no phosphate in your salt mix, it is best to go witha good synthetic salt like hw?

I'm not sure I understand the connection. I just asked why Ed thought that changing salt mixes was a concern.

In general, I don't think most mixes have any important amount of nitrate or phosphate. A single small feeding adds way more than any salt mix contains. :)
 
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I'mm not sure I understand the connection. I just asked why Ed thought that changing salt mixes was a concern.

In general, I don't think most mixes have any important amount of nitrate or phosphate. A single small feeding adds way more than any salt mix contains. :)
No there was no connection, i was just asking.
 
OK.

I don't think the nutrients in a salt mix should be a concern. In a single day you typically add the equivalent of 0.02 to 0.3 ppm of phosphate from foods, so the small amounts that might be in a salt mix are not important. Same for nitrate, but with much higher numbers.

I show that there:
ehttp://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/3/chemistry
 
OK.

I don't think the nutrients in a salt mix should be a concern. In a single day you typically add the equivalent of 0.02 to 0.3 ppm of phosphate from foods, so the small amounts that might be in a salt mix are not important. Same for nitrate, but with much higher numbers.

I show that there:
ehttp://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/3/chemistry
Ok then, what would be the pros and cons to using a synthetic salt mix versus red sea coral pro mix?
 
Ok then, what would be the pros and cons to using a synthetic salt mix versus red sea coral pro mix?

I really wouldn't make such a distinction. All salt mixes are synthetic. None are made just from dried ocean water. You cannot dry ocean water and then add water back to get seawater. Things like calcium carbonate precipitate and will not redissolve.

Some mixes may get some of the prime ingredients (sodium chloride, magnesium chloride, magnesium sulfate) by drying seawater themselves, just as many companies also make table salt (sodium chloride) that way. Red Sea says that, but may make it sound to some people like they are just drying ocean water to get the product:

"These formulas are made with natural sodium chloride from the Red Sea that provides an unparalleled formulation and homogeneity of all trace elements, with part of the living reef in every harvested grain."

Other mixes mine salts that dried from ocean water millions of years ago and deposited as salt layers in geologic deposits. Those have trace elements too. I'm not sure I see a difference. :)
 
I really wouldn't make such a distinction. All salt mixes are synthetic. None are made just from dried ocean water. You cannot dry ocean water and then add water back to get seawater. Things like calcium carbonate precipitate and will not redissolve.

Some mixes may get some of the prime ingredients (sodium chloride, magnesium chloride, magnesium sulfate) by drying seawater themselves, just as many companies also make table salt (sodium chloride) that way. Red Sea says that, but may make it sound to some people like they are just drying ocean water to get the product:

"These formulas are made with natural sodium chloride from the Red Sea that provides an unparalleled formulation and homogeneity of all trace elements, with part of the living reef in every harvested grain."

Other mixes mine salts that dried from ocean water millions of years ago and deposited as salt layers in geologic deposits. Those have trace elements too. I'm not sure I see a difference. :)
Gotcha. Thankyou sir.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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