The best SALT you have used...

Randy, I'm not sure but changing salts with differents characteristics is an issue.
I'm trying to study this subject and I'm facing a lot of discrepancies, i.e., a lot of opinions.
What do you think?

I can't imagine an issue, as long as you recognize the changes in dosing that might be needed. :)
 
So, if you've been using the same salt mix for years and decide to change, other than possible changes in the amount of 2 part you are dosing, there will be no effect at all on any livestock?
 
So, if you've been using the same salt mix for years and decide to change, other than possible changes in the amount of 2 part you are dosing, there will be no effect at all on any livestock?

Nope. People do it all the time without issues.

I only heard of one combination that years ago people think they had issues with. I'm not sure if that was true, but it was a change from normal IO to Crystal Seas Marinemix which Ron Shimek was touting at the time. Both mixes have likely changed formulations since then.
 
How much acid?

Be very careful with straight muriatic acid. It can easily burn you, especially your eyes.

The "acidity" (that being essentially negative alkalinity) of muriatic acid straight from the bottle is about 11,000 meq/L (-31,000 dKH).

So adding 1/11,000 of the water volume as this acid will drop alkalinity by 1 meq/L = 2.8 dKH.

Suppose you want to drop 13 gallons of new salt water by 6 dKH:

If you want a drop of 6 dKH, you'd add 1/5,100th of the water volume.

13 gallons ~ 49 L

1/5100 of 49 L = 9.6 mL

So I'd add 5 ml and stir well for a few minutes and see what alkalinity you get. Then dose again assuming it seems on the right track.

You'll need to aerate well after adding the acid to blow off the excess CO2 and bring up the pH.
smile.gif


The pH will drop quite low initially, and a side benefit is there will be no deposits when using normal IO with this method, while there is with making ir normally. :)
 
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Be very careful with straight muriatic acid. It can easily burn you, especially your eyes.

The "acidity" (that being essentially negative alkalinity) of muriatic acid straight from the bottle is about 11,000 meq/L (-31,000 dKH).

So adding 1/11,000 of the water volume as this acid will drop alkalinity by 1 meq/L = 2.8 dKH.

Suppose you want to drop 13 gallons of new salt water by 6 dKH:

If you want a drop of 6 dKH, you'd add 1/5,100th of the water volume.

13 gallons ~ 49 L

1/5100 of 49 L = 9.6 mL

So I'd add 5 ml and stir well for a few minutes and see what alkalinity you get. Then dose again assuming it seems on the right track.

You'll need to aerate well after adding the acid to blow off the excess CO2 and bring up the pH.
smile.gif


The pH willd roop quite low initially, and a side benefit is there will be no deposits when using normal IO with this method, while there is with making ir normally. :)
Thanks for the info.
I'm trying to get the tank cleaned up, especially the sump, a 100 gallon rubbermaid. Have been wanting to vacuum it out, and it's probably going to take quite a bit of replacement water. I've been hesitating b/c of the alk swing that much water would probably create.
 
....The pH will drop quite low initially, and a side benefit is there will be no deposits when using normal IO with this method, while there is with making ir normally. :)
Do you think this would also apply to RSCP, which apparently starts to precipitate if mixed too long?
 
Good ole regular IO for me. Mixes up well and produces parameters that pretty much mirror NSW. Works great for me in my system where I have very little nutrient and parameters close to NSW. I keep SPS and some LPS.
 
Do you think this would also apply to RSCP, which apparently starts to precipitate if mixed too long?

Yes. It likely precipitates because its alk is so high. :)
 
Disclaimer: I did not read the whole thread, but I saw some Red Sea Coral pro and Reef Crystals. Both, IHMO are horrible, at least RC is. In my opnion Tropic Marin Pro Reef is the best, although, I've heard ESV is better.
 
Disclaimer: I did not read the whole thread, but I saw some Red Sea Coral pro and Reef Crystals. Both, IHMO are horrible, at least RC is. In my opnion Tropic Marin Pro Reef is the best, although, I've heard ESV is better.
Why are they horrible? And why are they the best? In your opinions of course.
 
. ...

The pH will drop quite low initially, and a side benefit is there will be no deposits when using normal IO with this method, while there is with making it normally. :)

Would you then suggest adding the muriatic acid right before adding in the salt, right after, or at some other point in time?

I've been adding right after adding IO salt to the water.
 
Hi everyone, how are you doing?
Hope everything goes well.
I started the subject "" the best SALT "" for buying the best salt but it goes well in every way.
Thank you all.
Now for the problem changes,
I bought Kent Marin salt, one of the bests.
I noticed that my reefs are not as good as always, I tested water and results were horrible, po4, no3, CA, mg, kh, all were high, so I changed 30% of water, nothing changes, again everything was high, mg: 1700, ca:620, kh: 9/3, po4: 0/5 ( with Salifert) & no3: 80 (API),
So after 3 days I did again, after 1 day again nothing changes, again 30% of water changing for 3rd time, I tested the water and here is my results:
Mg: 1650
CA: 580
Kh: 8.3
PO4: 1 [emoji33] [emoji33] [emoji33]
NO3: 160[emoji33] [emoji33] [emoji33] [emoji33]
The system will use CA, MG & kh
But PO4 & NO3!!!!
I don't know what to do, I have a good refugium full of plant and good live rocks, a fan in sump for controlling pH, salinity is 1.025 and the temperature is 26°c.
Please help, what should I do?
 
Would you then suggest adding the muriatic acid right before adding in the salt, right after, or at some other point in time?

I've been adding right after adding IO salt to the water.

Yes, after the salt mix. :)
 
Hi everyone, how are you doing?
Hope everything goes well.
I started the subject "" the best SALT "" for buying the best salt but it goes well in every way.
Thank you all.
Now for the problem changes,
I bought Kent Marin salt, one of the bests.
I noticed that my reefs are not as good as always, I tested water and results were horrible, po4, no3, CA, mg, kh, all were high, so I changed 30% of water, nothing changes, again everything was high, mg: 1700, ca:620, kh: 9/3, po4: 0/5 ( with Salifert) & no3: 80 (API),
So after 3 days I did again, after 1 day again nothing changes, again 30% of water changing for 3rd time, I tested the water and here is my results:
Mg: 1650
CA: 580
Kh: 8.3
PO4: 1 [emoji33] [emoji33] [emoji33]
NO3: 160[emoji33] [emoji33] [emoji33] [emoji33]
The system will use CA, MG & kh
But PO4 & NO3!!!!
I don't know what to do, I have a good refugium full of plant and good live rocks, a fan in sump for controlling pH, salinity is 1.025 and the temperature is 26°c.
Please help, what should I do?

Nutrient problems are not usually best solved by water changes, especially not phosphate, which does not go away even with a 100% change.

Increased export methods are a much better way. These show lots of ways:

Phosphate In The Reef Aquarium

Nitrate in the Reef Aquarium - REEFEDITION

How are you measuring salinity? I suspect it is higher than you think, unless you have overdosed on calcium and magnesium.
 
Nutrient problems are not usually best solved by water changes, especially not phosphate, which does not go away even with a 100% change.

Increased export methods are a much better way. These show lots of ways:

Phosphate In The Reef Aquarium

Nitrate in the Reef Aquarium - REEFEDITION

How are you measuring salinity? I suspect it is higher than you think, unless you have overdosed on calcium and magnesium.
Thanks Mr Holmes
Thanks
But
The 1st link is about music and hip hop [emoji16] [emoji16] [emoji16] [emoji16] not phosphates.
And i measur my salinity with this

07a187431f4b34055cc0a61098254dc0.jpg


When the water range is in the middle of green area it's the best and on 25.
I can show you when I got home, now I'm at work, here is 8:30 AM now.
 

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